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Vintages Saturday, February 2nd Release
The 90+ Point Bandwagon
Michael
Vaughan
Friday, February 1, 2008
Welcome to the inaugural Friday First weekly edition of Liquid Assets. Michael
Vaughan features will appear nationally in the weekend section of the Financial
Post commencing February 2008.
It is my belief that content is what drives a newspaper. It is here where I have
strived to bring readers accurate, cutting edge information each and every week
for the past nine years. Thanks to your support, our website now receives up to
23,000 hits a day. As a courtesy, National Post readers are still able to access
the January 19 edition of Vintage Assessments click
here.
Friday First
Reflection on the sentiments expressed in this week's flood of letters (e-mails
actually) has convinced me to not abandon updates for beginners, in deference to
just the wine savvy. My weekly updates will continue to flow. Better yet,
instead of the traditional Saturday constraint; you will now be able to get the
scoop on what to buy before any of the newspapers go to print because Liquid
Assets is available on Friday.
No more waiting for the Saturday paper to
"knock" at your front door. The really big advantage is that almost
all the LCBO stores have the Vintages products on the shelves by Friday. No
lining up on a cold frosty morning to nab that rare bottle. In fact, it's tough
to find any line-ups anywhere anymore. It seems that there's too many wine
values chasing too few dollars.
Saturday, February 2nd Vintages Release
Let me kick off with tomorrow's Vintages special thematic:
90+ Wine Scoring Demystified. Perhaps the LCBO Catalogue says it best: "WHAT'S THE MAGIC
NUMBER? When a wine scores 90 or above with the critics, it is almost always a
guarantee of excellence. This year marks the 30th anniversary of the 100-point
scoring system first employed by the esteemed critic Robert Parker Jr. Vintages
marks this milestone with a cream-of-the-crop selection that proves high-scoring
wines don't have to come with a hefty price tag".
It's a slippery slope. Everyone wants to sell wine and it seems that high scores
are the easiest way of achieve this. Today's 25 Vintages selections all score
90-points or more. That's great, but the real question is: are they actually
worthy of the published score. In my opinion, the answer is simple - no.
Of course, one expert can love a wine, while another might dislike it. It is
always a matter of taste and personal preference. There are a multitude of
problems associated with numbers. Who did the rating is critical. It's much
harder to get high scores from some critics than others.
Another critical aspect is when was the wine scored - two months ago or two
years ago? Was it from a local store, barrel sample or a specially delivered
one-of-a-kind bottle? Does the tasting note include a bottle lot number so you
can make sure that what you're buying is identical? In what kind of wine glass
was it assessed in? I should mention that on this last point, the easiest way to
get a different score is to change the tasting glass.
I don't want to venture into the quagmire of saying which authority is right or
wrong, too high or too low. Personally, I will continue to give readers my
personal ratings. A guide to how I my ratings work appears below. Note that if
you searching for 90 point wines, then the range **+ to *** is where you want to
look. Over 90 points? Then it's *** and perhaps ***+ which is as close to
perfection as it gets (100 points).

As for the rising tide of high scores, it's tough to
resist. It seems like a disease, ninetypointitis. Tens of thousands of wines are
now popping up everywhere with higher than ever scores. Take the December issue
of First-In-Line where 53 out of the 100 Vintages releases reviewed scored
90-points or more. A whopping 53% got the magic score. Who says it isn't fun to
be Santa?
February 2nd Whites
Getting down to brass tacks, of the five "90+" whites featured, while
Chapoutier 2003 Chanté Alouette Blanc Hermitage is loaded with distinctive,
idiosyncratic flavours, at $74.75, it isn't at the top of my list. If I had to
pick one, it would be the classy Henscheke 2005 Julius Riesling (945055) at
$36.75 from Australia's Eden Valley. Of all 33 whites, my top buy is Grant Burge
2006 Summers Chardonnay (see below) a steal at $18.75, which is also from
Australia's Eden Valley. Another great value white comes from Alsace -
Gisselbrecht 2006 Pinot Blanc Réserve Spéciale (see below) at $12.75.


February 2nd Reds
Moving on to the 20 Vintages "90+"reds, there are seven Aussi reds,
but the best was omitted. The *** Henschke 2004 Henry's Seven (see below) at
$40.90 received a surprisingly low 90-point score from Robert Parker. It
deserves to be in this group, but isn't - perhaps this is because there are only
85 6-packs of this Barossa gem available. I suggest that you move quickly if you
want it. Another high-scoring exclusion (Parker 92-points) is **+Glen Eldon
2004 Dry Bore Shiraz (54197) at $27.75. It has an extremely deep intense purple
colour and solid, medium-full bodied, mouthfilling, dried ripe plum and dusty
red cherry flavours with a lingering, mocha finish.

February 2nd Five Sweeties
for Valentines Day





February 2nd ISDs
Finally, given the fact that it's the Year of the Rat (Thursday, February 7), a
special salute to Vintages who seems hell bent on increasing the number of
untasted in-store-discoveries (or ISDs) in each release - despite a promise last
year to reduce the number. Well I don't want to call anyone Pinocchio, but it
seems that we have 16 for tomorrow, 19 on February 16th and a whopping 27 on
March 1st. If you looking for something outstanding, don't miss Domaine Zind
Humbrecht 2005 Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim (51912) at $38.75. A stunning
white for the Chinese New Year feast.
Sunday, February 3rd
Super Bowl & Super Best Buy
Looking for delightful best buy for tomorrow's Super Bowl?
Last September I raved about winemaker Darryl Brooker's Hillebrand 2006 Gamay
Noir Rosé Artist Series (49742) with surprisingly delicious with fragrant ripe
plums and wild strawberry flavours. The price of this seasonal general list item
is now been reduced to only $6.95 (down from $12.15). To see availability click
here
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