| Have a Great Thanksgiving
Michael
Vaughan
Thursday, October 9, 2008
As the Saturday, October 11th Vintages selections are hitting the shelves tomorrow (Friday, October 10th), I am giving Liquid Asset readers a head’s up to my Thanksgiving long weekend selections.
Let me kick off with a terrific lasting taste treat. The Balvenie 17 Years Old Sherry Oak Highland Single Malt (70714) at $129.95 rated a stunning ***+. It is one of the finest single malt I have tasted in quite some time. Yellowing deep amber colour, it has an intense, very faintly earthy, complex, plummy, Seville-orange-marmalade-tinged nose with some vanilla notes. It’s intense and very well balanced on the palate with slightly spicy, plummy, well structured, ripe lemon flavours with a lingering, vanilla stick finish. A wonderful long weekend sipper.
There are a couple of delicious sweet dessert wines worth buying. Pedro Ximenez 1827 Sweet Sherry (47944) at $17.95 rated **+. Deep ambering brown with a golden yellow edge, it has a lovely, sweet, honeyed, raisin pie nose. Delicious, spicy, very sweet, fleshy, rich, raisin pie flavours with a long, lingering, toffee-caramel finish.
If you like icewine, you will love Lenz Moser 2006 Beerenauslese Prestige (930255) at only $16.95 and rated **+. Noble rot is the name given to Botrytis Cinerea, a fungus which helps create wines such as classic sweet French Sauternes and German Trockenbeernauslese. Light yellow colour, this fine Austrian effort has a very sweet, spicy, lemon meringue pie nose. It’s rich, very sweet and spicy on the palate with tangy, lemon meringue flavours and a lingering, honeyed-caramel finish.
For the big bird, I have a couple of white wine selections. If you like Chard, don’t miss Cousino-Macul 2007 Antiguas Reservas Chardonnay (730044) at $14.95 and rated **. It has a honeyed, rather spicy, melon, ripe apple nose with some toasty, ripe lemon notes. Dry, crisp and medium bodied, it has slightly spicy, honeyed, ripe lemon-melon flavours with a refined, lingering, gently toasty finish. It is a blend of predominantly stainless steel Chard with a small portion aged for 7 months in French oak, some of which had malolactic fermentation.
A highlight from Greece is Sigalas Santorini 2006 (74781) at $21.95 rated **+. From the beautiful island of Santorini, this 100% Assyrtiko from the respected house of Sigalis has a light yellow colour and a rather intense, gently complex, slightly spicy, baked ripe lemon-melon nose. Dry, well-structured, medium-full bodied, harmonious, ripe lemon-melon-cantalope flavours with a lingering, slightly schisty, solid finish. It has great acidity, texture and flavour.
In terms of red selection, you can’t miss with the sumptuous Allan Scott 2007 Pinot Noir (68437) at $24.95 rated **+. Medium deep red colour, it has an intense, spicy, slightly cedary, ripe red cherries and beet root on the nose. On the palate it is quite juicy, dry and medium bodied with tangy, fresh, plummy, raspberry-cherry-cranberry flavours and a long, lingering finish. New at Vintages, it is a perfect choice for Thanksgiving turkey. Screwcap closure.
Two terrific value reds include Finca el Retiro 2004 Reserva Especial Tempranillo (57216) at $14.95 rated *+/**. Extremely deep intense purple colour, the nose is complex and slightly spicy with baked plums, dried black cherries and cloves on the vanilla-tinged notes. Dry, medium-full bodied and well structured, it shows ripe plum and black cherry flavours with a slightly tart, lingering finish.
Even better is the outstanding South African Graham Beck 2006 Gameskeeper Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (2519) at $19.95 rated **+. Extremely deep intense purple colour, the nose is quite forward with spicy, cedary, plummy, juicy black cherry notes. It’s dry, medium bodied and fairly extracty with ripe plum, cedary, dried ripe cherry flavours and a lingering finish.
Other fine buys include Pikes 2004 Eastside Shiraz (77891) at $21.95 rated **/**+. Very deep intense purple colour, the nose is spicy, intense and cedary with plummy, slightly smoky, mocha-chocolate notes. Dry, well structured, medium to medium-full bodied and harmonious, the ripe plum and black cherry purée flavours are complimented with a lingering, slightly smoky, mocha-chocolate finish.
Langmeil 2006 Hangin' Snakes Shiraz/Viognier (77685) at $22.95 is well rated **+. This blend of 95% Shiraz and 5% Viognier has a very deep intense purple colour. The nose shows spicy, vanilla-tinged, ripe black cherry purée and the taste is dry, well structured, harmonious and medium to medium-full bodied with ripe plum and black cherry flavours followed up by a lingering, slightly cedary finish. Screwcap closure.
It may not go well with turkey, but Christine & Eric Saurel 2005 Montirius Vacqueyras Le Clos (76547) at $28.95 rated **+/***. This wonderful Rhone biodynamic blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah has an extremely intense purple colour and a slightly earthy, spicy, baked black cherry nose with hints of vanilla stick. On the palate it is dry, tangy, medium to medium-full bodied and fairly extracty with very slightly earthy, ripe plum flavours and a lingering, slightly cedary finish. Try with robust flavourful red meats. This organic wine contains 13 ml of free sulphur.
Last but not least, don’t miss Pol Roger Brut Rosé Champagne 2000 (82495) at $94.95 rated ***+. Medium salmon pink colour, it has a very attractive, classic, faintly honeyed, ripe plum and red cherry nose. On the palate it is dry, harmonious and medium bodied with ripe plum flavours, fine structure and refined lingering effervescence.
Launching

Getting Real Value into your Glass
Michael
Vaughan
Friday, October 3, 2008
It’s human nature. How many of us enjoy uncovering a great wine
at a bargain price? Nothing gets the juices flowing like finding
that “unknown” sublime find, which tastes like $100, but only costs
$10.
Unfortunately, the chance of finding this kind of bargain is becoming
ever more remote. In a wired world, the best wines often remain
“top secret” until the insiders scoop up all that’s available.
Every winewriter tries to get something special for their readers.
On August 9th Globe & Mail columnist Beppi Crosariol triumphed
Argentina’s Fuzion 2007 Shiraz Malbec
at $7.45 in an article entitled: “Run, don’t walk, to taste this
under-$8 treasure.” Sadly, there was no LCBO stock at the time
and, due to this temporary outage, consumers have been lining up
ever since. Thankfully, this stampede in a teapot is bound to dissipate
in the near future as huge quantities start to arrive.
While Fuzion is a huge success that offers fine drinkability at
an extremely low price, I simply don’t agree that producers of $15
Australian Shiraz and $20 California Merlot should be “very afraid”.
While there may well be too many wines of questionable value in
this price range, the fault lies with the LCBO not the producer.
The LCBO has worked hard to have ever-higher-priced listings so
as to increase their profits. Despite the rising Canadian dollar,
the LCBO apparently encouraged suppliers to maintain or even raise
prices and then have them pump these higher profits back into LCBO
marketing programs. While I have often complained about these higher
LCBO prices in the National Post, it was only the recent avalanche
of criticism from the Toronto Star and Globe & Mail that caught
the LCBO by surprise. Thankfully, Javier Santos, the LCBO's director
of wine, knew what to do – get cheaper wines.
Getting back to Fuzion, at last the LCBO has thrown a bone to consumers.
Of course, this new breakthrough low-cost wine has ironically been
doing gangbusters in Quebec for quite some time. Also note that
its presence is going to hurt the sale of other slightly higher
priced, albeit better quality, Argentine reds. Why? Because better
values might well be ignored by consumers who are transfixed by
a new low price.
Thankfully,
there are lots of other fine new wine values out there. And that’s
what excited me this week when I tasted South Africa’s new Drostdy-Hof
2007 Merlot (345371) at $9.95 (the lot identified LB109D08 appears on the back label). It was sent by Julia Gradwell
from PMA Canada who hoped that I would like it. I did. It
is delicious and a downright bargain - dry and yet well-balanced
with lots of gently juicy, plummy, ripe cherry flavours and a lingering,
very faintly smoky, tangy, mocha- chocolate finish.
In the realm of under $10 wines, Drostdy-Hof is truly terrific
– definitely a gold medal wine value award
winner. For my taste, it’s better than Fuzion and well-worth
the extra $2.50. It is also superior to some wines in the $10-20
range. Ready to drink, it’s a versatile match for my upcoming Thanksgiving
turkey dinner.
In the press kit, I was informed that Drostdy-Hof also rated well
in the recent Wine Access International Value Wine Awards
(aka IWVA), which is now in its third year. Mysteriously, its supposed
“killer value” status never materialized. Indeed, I was surprised
by the relatively low 86-point score. In fact, the IVWA had lots
of surprises. For instance, Drostdy-Hof was beaten out by Black
Tower 2007 Dornfelder Pinot Noir, which the IVWA rated
as an 87-point “killer value” red at $11.75. I was amazed
by the Wine Access top scoring value wine in Canada - Blue
Nun 2007 Riesling - the number one IVWA competition “killer
value”.
An obvious problem with all competitions is that group scores don’t
always work. Also, many worthwhile wines are not assessed. Perhaps
it was the hefty Wine Access $100 fee per entry that discouraged
agents/producers from submitting a wider array of wines. Another
concern is that many awarded wines may no longer be available because
of the six-month delay between submission of samples and publication
of results. It is very challenging to interpret the Wine Access
results. Is, for instance, an 87-point $12 German blend better value
than an 86-point $10 South African Merlot?
These were some of the issues we addressed in the Canadian International
Wine Challenge, which I organized annually for a number of years.
Our competition ensured that all awarded wines were actually available
at the LCBO – same lot number and same vintage. Second, all award-winning
wines were put into gold, silver and bronze classifications according
to various price groupings. This was much more user-friendly for
buyers.
To see how it worked, look at the 2003
CIWC Judging Results. It was hugely successful with some 100,000
printed hard copies being distributed to Ontario readers.

Recognizing that value is extremely important, we have just launched
the Wine Value Awards.
It provides readers with the inside scoop on real value. It is free
of any entry fee, only awards wines that are available and is without
any commercial bias. We have devised a special formula that takes
into account quality emphasizing fruit and harmony along
with intrinsic style; drinkability; and the point score
weighted against price. To make results comprehensible, awarded
wines receive medals – bronze, silver or gold. There is even
a gold plus category for the super buys. Our www.WineValueAwards.com
will be a free to all exclusively on our website each and every
week. Continuously updated, our wine database of dynamite values
will help you connect with the best buys actually available.
Coming
Up: Madeira Trade Tasting on Monday, October 6 there, which will
be held at the University Club - 380 University Avenue, from 3:00
to 6:00 pm. For information contact William Delgado at 416-921-0259
or email william.delgado@portugalglobal.pt
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