Whisky Live Tonite
Best Buys in "today's" Vintages Release

Michael Vaughan
Friday, October 24, 2008

As my devoted readers have known for years, most Vintages stores stock their shelves on Friday the day prior to the Vintages release. It makes sense as no one bothers lining up anymore for these releases. Real bargains have pretty much dried up and there's a surfeit of wines available, many of which are just not worth the prices being charged by the LCBO.

Before divulging my under-$20 buys, let me mention today's Whisky Live event at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building. Anyone who needs a stiff drink to escape thoughts of the impending (it's already with us) R-word, then this is it.  Here is the floor plan and the list of 68 whiskies available to taste (to attend click here). Here are three show destinations (notes have been taken from the official show guide):

The Balvenie Stand no. 12
The Balvenie Single Malt Scotch Whisky's exceptional quality is due to a high level of craftsmanship that other malt whisky producers no longer employ. In recognition of our dedication to time-honoured skills,we were awarded an incredible 5 gold medals at the 2007 & 2008 International Wine and Spirit Competition, which follow a record breaking win of 6 gold medals at the International Spirit Challenge (ISC) in 2006 – the biggest gold medal haul for any brand in any one year since the competition began. Join us for a taste of the newly released ISC Gold Winner – The Balvenie Signature Twelve.

Glenfiddich Stand no. 14
At the Glenfiddich Distillery, time and experience are the heart of the operation. Accumulated and passed down through five generations, the rich whisky making experience of our craftsmen ensures each variant in the Glenfiddich Single Malt Scotch Range matures exquisitely well. The Range of aged expressions takes connoisseurs through a rich and vibrant experience of highly awarded single malts.

Morrison Bowmore Distillers Ltd Stand no. 5
Taste the Scottish tradition with three malt whisky distilleries situated in the major production areas of Islay (Bowmore), the Highlands (Glen Garioch) and the Lowlands (Auchentoshan). You will have the opportunity to nose and discuss the differences between these major regions.

Back to the October 25th Vintages release. There are two best buy Chardonnays. The first is a terrific Ontario buy from the Niagara Peninsula. Designated as a VQA Twenty Mile Bench Flat Rock Cellars 2006 Chardonnay (681247) at $16.95 rated ** (out of three stars). Medium straw colour the nose is quite intense and cedary with slightly spicy, ripe lemon. It's dry, bright and medium bodied with slightly spicy, ripe lemon flavours with some key lime pie notes on the lingering, toasty finish.

For South Africa's Coastal Region, KWV's Cathedral Cellar 2005 Chardonnay (328559) at $14.95 rated **/**+. It has a bright, disarmingly deep yellow colour with a very intense, spicy, cedary, complex, ripe pear and lemon meringue nose. On the palate it's quite rich, medium bodied and well structured with cedary, slightly spicy, ripe lemon-pear purée flavours with a lingering, caramel-tinged finish. Serve with white meats and poultry - not seafood. This is the third Vintages release of the recommended 2005.

Not quite in the $20 threshold is Dr. Konstantin Frank 2006 Dry Riesling (70631) at $24.95 rated **. It is very pale straw colour with a fairly intense, gently complex, slightly spicy, ripe lemon-melon nose with hints of apple purée. On the palate it is crisp, dry and medium-light bodied with harmonious, ripe, lemon-melon-apple flavours and a tangy, refreshing finish.

Red best buys include a remarkable value from the Pacific Northwest. Hedges Cellars 2006 CMS (948992) at $17.95 rated *+/**. This blend of 52% Cabernet, 44% Merlot and 4% Syrah has a deep intense purple colour and a spicy, red cherry nose with some cedary notes. Dry, very bright and medium bodied with plummy, ripe cherry flavours along with some bitter chocolate notes on the lingering finish. It's ready to enjoy.

From Australia's Barossa Value comes Two Hands Wines 2006 Lucky Country Shiraz (77883) at $17.95 rated **. It as a very deep intense purple colour and intense, youthful, slightly cedary, plummy, dried cherry nose. It is intense, dry and quite well structured on the palate with slightly spicy, plummy, stewed red cherry flavours and a lingering, cedary, crancherry finish.

Delicious, well-priced, Pinot Noir is always hard to find, so don't miss trying Kim Crawford 2007 Pinot Noir (626390) at $19.95 rated **. Deep purple red colour, the nose is slightly cedary with baked ripe plum and very juicy cherry notes. Dry, very tangy and medium bodied, the spicy, gently juicy, ripe red cherry flavours are at their peak.

Another fine Malbec from Argentina is J.F. Lurton 2006 Reserva Malbec (903153) at $13.95 rated *+. Very deep intense purple colour, it has a complex, slightly earthy, spicy, plummy, dried cherry and dusty apple nose. It's dry, medium bodied and slightly spicy with plummy, raspberry-chocolate flavours and a crisp finish.

Finally, perhaps the most intriguing best buy comes from Portugal. The not-to-be-missed DFJ Vinhos 2005 Grand'arte Alicante Bousche (80614) at only $14.95 scored *+/**. It has an extremely deep intense purple colour and an intense, slightly spicy, plummy, sweetish, mocha-chocolate nose with some sandalwood-vanilla notes. It's medium to medium-full bodied, very well structured and yet harmonious with ripe plum, juicy cherry and mocha-chocolate flavours plus a lingering finish. The Alicante Bousche grape (aka Alicante) is a cross between Petit Bouschet and Grenache.

Fine Bordeaux Bargains
Uncovering In-Store Discoveries

Michael Vaughan
Friday, October 17, 2008

A *** Vintage Assessments Release Highlight from April 12, 2008 is now on sale. 2001 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion (61788) has been just reduced in price from $71.95 to only $58.30. This classy Graves (actually designated as a Pessac-Léognan) is 55% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc . Here is my tasting note: Fairly deep intense purple colour. Complex, spicy, licorice tinged, ripe plum nose with some cedary sandalwood notes. Dry, spicy, very well structured, harmonious, medium bodied, ripe plum and dried red and black cherries with hints of cassis, sandalwood and vanilla stick on the long lingering licorice tinged finish. Showing surprising well at the moment, it will last many years. There isn't too much around, so move quickly.

If you are looking for something cheaper, why not try 2003 Château de la Rivière (653147) initially released on August 18, 2007 at $44.95 and now on sale for $32.70. This distinguished Fronsac blend of 82% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec scored **+/***. The tasting note: Extremely intense deep purple colour. Complex, earthy, lead pencil, lime and ripe plum nose. Solid, dry, fairly extracty, full-bodied, ripe plum, prune and bitter chocolate flavours with a lingering finish. Good match for roast beef or a rare steak. Even better than the excellent 2000 released on May 28, 2005 at $39.95.

As of last Saturday, October 11, Vintages had released 2,026 In-Store Discoveries – we have the detailed list – click here the list. The program started on January 2004 and much to the chagrin of producers and wine distributors, wine writers are not allowed to taste these items. To be truthful, it isn't that I am looking for more things to taste - this week alone I was in the LCBO lab for three days and tasted more than 350 wines and spirits. Nevertheless, it would make sense to allow wine writers to sample the ISDs put out for the LCBO Consultants on their Tuesday tastings. There is more than enough wine to go around - I am always sad to see bottles being dumped down the drain.

Having said that, I want to thank Wine Fanatics for sending me a sample of their Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 2005 Riesling Auslese (ISD 71456) at $27.95, which was released on September 27, 2008 as an In-Store Discovery. Unfortunately, the first bottle German Mosel had some hints of mustiness. The LCBO took the faulty bottle back (less one ounce that was used for tasting) and it was replaced with a perfectly sound bottle. What a difference. It scored **+/*** and here is my tasting note: Light straw colour. Bright, floral, sweet, honeyed, spicy, grapefruit marmalade nose. Sweet, zesty, slightly spicy, refined, grapefruit marmalade flavours with a lingering, tangy finish. Versatile and ready to enjoy. Wouldn't it be easier for all concerned to simply have let the wine writers taste the unfinished, open bottle in the lab? It's still available in 17 Vintages outlets.

Thanks to the agent Malcolm Cocks of Glen Ward, I was able to taste Dusted Valley Vintners 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (ISD 70615) at $29.95. This *** Washington blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Malbec has a deep intense purple colour. The nose is very attractive, fairly intense and gently juicy with plummy, ripe cherries and hints of vanilla stick. On the palate it is refined, dry and well structured with harmonious, fresh, plummy, ripe black and red cherry flavours with a lingering finish. Versatile and ready to enjoy, only 736 cases produced and sells at the winery for $28. You may be interested in discovering that this wine won the Double Gold Best of Class ($25 to $34.99) at the 2008 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (see: http://www.winejudging.com/medal_winners_2008/452.htm)

Ditto for Morrison Bowmore 16 Years Old Port-Matured Limited Edition Single Malt 1991 (ISD 62216) at  $139.95. This *** Islay Cask Strength Non Chill Filtered Single Malt was released last Saturday.  Here is my tasting note: Medium deep orange amber colour. Intense, smoky, complex, spicy, baked plum nose with some intriguing hints of seaweed. Dry, firm, mouthfilling, well structured, intense, slightly spicy, plummy, peat-tinged, mouthfilling, faintly pepper flavours with a caramel-vanilla finish.

Coming up: Friday, October 24 - Whisky Live is Canada's whisky tasting event of the year. It is held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, South Building. For tickets and more information click here.