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A Top Bordeaux
As mentioned last week, today I reveal my top Bordeaux pick of the Vintages, November 11th release. From the northerly St-Estèphe appelation of the Medoc comes the exceedingly well-made Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Château de Pez 2005 (717389) at $63.95. Here is my tasting note: Deep intense purple in colour, the nose is intense and complex with sandalwood, mocha, dried ripe cherry and lime notes. On the palate it is well structured, medium-full bodied and harmonious with slightly spicy, ripe plum and key lime pie flavours followed up by a long, lingering, sandalwood, earth-tinged finish. It shows good accessibility now but will age well – perhaps for a decade or more. The 2003 (***) was also a release highlight when released on November 24, 2007 at only $51.95. Chateau de Pez has 26 ha. of vineyards - 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. It is usually aged 16 to 18 months with 40% new oak. Looking for gifts? I am sad to report that once again the pickings are pretty slim in this year's 2008 edition of the Vintages Holiday Gifts Catalogue. It features very few (any?) new items. In fact, almost all of the gift packs featured on the last eight pages are just suggestions from recent Vintages releases. Check out my ratings in my Vintages database before taking the plunge because some of these LCBO recommended selections are not worth the detour!
Best buys? Here are two. First, the ever-reliable sparkling duo from Spain – Codorniu Cava Gift Pack of Pinot Noir Brut & Raventos Reserva Brut (6379) at $33.95. My second choice is another nifty pair of top Canadian icewines: Inniskillin Icewine Gift Set - Riesling 2006 & Vidal 2006 (601021) at $64.95 for two 200 mL bottles. Moving on, it is always a pleasure to see familiar faces. In the case of Miguel Torres, it has been two years since he last visited Toronto. Before commenting on his excellent wines and olive oil, I have to mention that two weeks earlier, it was his California-based sister, Marimar Torres who was visiting. In 1983 Marimar bought a 56-acre property in Green Valley on the western edge of the Sonoma Valley, just 10 miles from the Pacific. Her high-density plantings (2,000 vines per acre) commenced in 1986 and were focused on just two grapes – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Always ahead of the time, her Don Miguel and Dona Margarita vineyards are farmed organically. The winery officially opened its door in 1993 and Bill Dyer, formerly of Sterling Vineyards, was hired to shepherd the transition of grapes into wine.
Let me comment in passing. Wines made from very youthful vines can be incredibly charming. Beware, however, that such young vine wines made can fade much more quickly than expected. My recommended wines from Long Dog Winery in Prince Edward County, for instance, totally collapsed within two years despite being stored at ideal, constant, low temperatures. I know that it was an oversight but I felt like scolding the undrinkable wine that filled my glass – uttering bad dog, very bad dog! Of course, Marimar's wines are not susceptible to such calamity because of much reduced yields on her more recently planted vineyards. Nevertheless, I suggest that if the wine is delicious – drink it! This is especially true when you can marry it with the cuisine of chef Jason Bangerter at Auberge du Pommier Restautant. Anyone interested in discovering other wines from Marimar Torres should contact Jason Nykor at Pacific Wines & Spirits at 416-622-8000. As for the Miguel Torres luncheon tasting at Vertical, I was extremely impressed with Miguel's white Torres Fransola 2007 a delectable blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc with 5% Parellada, which partially barrel fermented in American oak. Sadly, this destination white was recently rejected by Vintages. I am considering making it a "Signature Selection" and will provide readers with an update as soon as I know the pricing. The last time it appeared in Vintages was on July 24, 2004 at $24.95.
 And talking about of showing beautifully, credit chef Tawfik Shehata of Vertical on King Street West who has consistently turned out first-rate cuisine. The appetizer of two extra large, perfectly tender, natural flavoured seared ultra fresh sea scallops was a real treat. The Kent farms tenderloin was medium-rare as requested, while the sweet apple tart was in the classic French tradition and a perfect match with the sweet dessert wine - Torres Moscatel Oro (642173) released still available at $16.95. My tasting note: Deep ambering gold colour. Sweet, plum jam nose with spicy Sultana raisin notes. Sweet, balanced, medium bodied, smooth, raisin-caramel flavours with a fairly crisp finish.
Recommended
As there are only 149 cases of my release highlight, the identity will be revealed next week after my subscribers have had a chance to track down the limited 149 cases of six available. Become an FBTI Supporter today and we will immediately send you the current Vintages Assessments buying guide documenting all 151 items on release. A $20 discount promotion is available – click here.
When I checked out www.andrelurton.com, the most recent entry for Château de Rochemorin Blanc was for the 2003 vintage. It says there are 18 ha of white and that this wine is 100% Sauvignon Blanc aged 10 months in 35% new oak. Of course, the actual grape composition, vinification/aging of Bordeaux is totally dependent upon the vintage and is subject to significant changes. As 2003 was a very hot year, obviously the winemaker decided to exclude the Sémillon component.
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