December 12, 2008

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Wine Value Awards &
A historical feature from Toronto Life Magazine
The Roots of Vintages - How it all Began

I was cleaning out some old magazines when I came across a pile of pieces I wrote for Toronto Life Magazine. One of the titles was "The day the LCBO found 1200 bottles of superb wine hidden under a pile of straw in Argentina." Ah yes, it was exactly 30 years ago that General George Kitching, the then LCBO equivalent to today's CEO Andy Brandt, personally took his two best tasters to visit more than five dozen European shippers to ultimately select 150 rarities on the spot for Ontario consumers. The ever-proactive Kitching traveled elsewhere, including South America and South Africa, in search of the best. The results were, certainly for the time, quite incredible. They were housed and put on sale in a non-descript second floor "Rare Wines & Spirits Shop" at the LCBO Queen's Quay headquarters on 43 Freeland Street. And so was the birth of today's Vintages.

Of course, times have changed. Bollinger 1961 Champagne Brut R.D., for instance, is no longer a mere $16.45 (to see the original March 1974 article click here). While prices have certainly gone up, it is a fact that consumers now have a much wider selection - Vintages when combined with the Classics, now offers thousands of wines in the course of a single year.

Unfortunately, also gone are the times when the LCBO's top tasters hit the wine trail in search of obscure rarities, which so obviously excited General Kitching. Instead, agents and producers alike stand in line hoping to receive the blessing of Vintages listings - all too reminiscent of groveling orphans begging for "more gruel please, sir." Those who can afford it are now part of the "Essentials" program (98 items), for which they pay a LCBO fee for their "continuous" listings be they great or just mediocre.

Today, most if not all of the current proactive wine discovery work is being done by a handful of agents. They scour the world for those special buys, which are usually destined for their private (i.e. restaurant) clients. This is the consequence of draconian LCBO rules that prevent private agents from selling less than a case to any entity.

As any astute buyer knows, one has to act quickly to take advantage of great buys. How many times have I heard complaints that the LCBO has waited six months, a year or even longer before moving on wines being held at their request with no deposit? This combined with the occasional dramatically reduced size of order has made Vintages "the buyer of last choice" among many quality producers. Also, by not being on the spot, Vintages often fails to get the best deals for its customers - meaning us! There is no question that by forcing us to buy a one case minimum from agents (as well as out-of-province Canadian wine producers), the LCBO has stifled choice and reduced their revenues, as non-LCBO store sales are much more cost effective.

Montalto 2007 Pinot Grigio (73148 • GL) at $9.95 is one of those Italian whites that seems to be flying under everyone’s radar. It scored an impressive **. I first tasted it last summer and was extremely impressed. Here at last is an Italian Pinot Grigio with lots of supple fruit flavours. The succulent melon-pear-lemon-apple fruit on the nose is perfectly balanced by gently juicy, crisp notes on the palate. A versatile crowd-pleaser, it comes with a convenient screwcap. Try it with poutry, seafood, almost anything.

Drostdy-Hof 2007 Merlot (345371 • GL) at $9.90 (the lot LB109D08 appears on the back label). Delicious - a downright ** bargain. This well priced, South African bargain is dry and well-balanced with lots of gently juicy, plummy, ripe cherry flavours and a lingering, very faintly smoky, tangy, mocha- chocolate finish.

Also from South Africa’s is Nederburg 2007 Winemaster's Reserve Shiraz (527457 • GL) at $10.95. I just tasted this new vintage and was amazed by its balance and fresh, plummy, ripe cherry-driven flavours. It comes from the Western Cape and scored an amazing **/**+.

From Argentina is another great **/**+ value Pascual Toso 2007 Malbec (35170 • GL) at $12.95. It has a deep intense purple colour and attractive, spicy, juicy, plummy, black cherry nose. On the palate it has dry, fairly juicy, spicy, clove tinged, ripe cherry flavours with a lingering, crisp, very pleasant, faintly bitter finish.

Great Champagne is always appreciated and one of my favourites has been moved from Vintages to the General List. Lanson Black Label Brut Champagne (41889 • GL) at $49.95 - with 10 bonus AirMiles until January 3 - is consistent best buy with crisp, effervescent, ripe, apple-lemon-citrus flavours along with a lingering, gently toasty finish. It is rated **+/***.

From the Vintages Holiday Gifts Catalogue the best buy is the ever-reliable sparkling duo from Spain – Codorniu Cava Gift Pack Pinot Noir Brut & Raventos Reserva Brut (6379 • V) originally at $33.95, now reduced to an incredible $24.95 as of Friday, December 19th. The latter has a light pink colour with dry, well-balanced, gently plummy flavours with fine effervescence. The latter is dry, crisp and light bodied with ripe lemon finish.

If you are looking for stand-alone, bargain bubbly, try Codorniu Brut Classico (6262 • GL) at $12.10 with 5 bonus airmiles. It’s dry, complex and quite well structured with slightly nutty, ripe lemon flavours with a lingering finish. Excellent value - rated **.

 


Best Buys at Vintages
Upcoming December 6th Release
& Special Vintages Sales

It isn't easy to track all the offerings at Vintages, which reasons beyond my comprehension seem to be kept secret.  First of all we have the regular December 6th release, which actually hits the shelves tomorrow Friday, December 5th. It has a So Fine thematic featuring 56 selections (7 spirits, 1 port, 7 whites, 27 reds, 1 rosé, 8 champagne and 5 sparkling). There are a total of 180 items including 29 Vintages Essentials (coded as VEC) and 43 In-Store Discoveries (coded as ISD). While none of te latter have been tasted, most of the regular releases have been tasted twice.

At the same time, Vintages has developed several special December sales that are designed to move product. As no list have been yet made available for Vintages customers full details are posted below

Vintages Holiday Sale: 71 items (December 8 - January 3)
Vintages Holiday Fizz Sale: 18 items (December 15 - January 3)
Vintages Insiders Direct Sale: 160 items
(December 8 - through V-Mail only)

Vintages Special AirMiles promotion: 8 items (December 6 - 20)

Regular Monthly Vintages Promotion (November 30 - January 3)
Vintages AirMiles promotion: 6 items
Vintages LTO promotion: 5 items

There are lots of great deals. Of the 14 Champagnes on sale from December 15 to January 3, discounts will vary from $7 to $28.

Beginning Monday, December 8th the 160-item Vintages Insiders Direct Sale (none rated) includes white Burgundies like Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon (737700), which will be reduced from $125 to $69. Don't get your expectations up – there are only 11 bottles available in 4 stores - the 2 in Toronto have 5 bottles. In the other 159 sales items, however, there are some very decent buys with reasonable quantities available.

The same thing applies to the 71 items on the Vintages Holiday Sale (70 rated), which also begins on December 8th. It included some of my best buys and discounts run about 20%. An example is Bouchard Pere et Fils 2005 Beaune Teurons (653675) reduced from $52.95 to $42.95 released in Vintages on October 11, 2008. It rated **+/*** and as of today December 8th, there is plenty on hand. Here is my note: Deep purple red colour. The nose is fairly intense with slightly spicy, faintly dusty, plummy, ripe red apples and dried red cherry notes. On the palate it is dry, medium bodied, fairly harmonious, plummy, ripe red cherry-apple flavours with a lingering finish. It would work well with turkey – even salmon.

As for the December 6th release, here are five of my best buy selections:

Recommended **+
726828 Graham's Crusted Port $32.95
Bottled 2001, DO Douro
(150 Cases) (20%) [Mar Ant]
Very deep intense purple colour. Spicy, plummy, crancherry nose. Sweet, rich, spicy, baked plum and black cherry flavours with a lingering finish.
Drinkability: { N S SM M ML l } -- Lot: L082720

Release Highlight ***+
26682 Beringer 2006 Private Reserve Chardonnay $49.95
Napa Valley, California
(500 Cases) (14.8%)  [Fos Win]
Bright light yellow colour. Quite lovely, complex, intense, slightly smoky, key lime pie nose. Very intense and yet harmonious with dry, medium-full bodied, extracty, ripe lemon, Anjou pear and key lime pie flavours. Refreshing, attractive, lingering, high acid finish. Even better than the Recommended 2005 (***) released on June 7, 2008 at $44.95.
Drinkability: { N S SM M ml } -- Lot: L0829071352

Recommended **/**+
680959 Santa Rita 2007 Floresta Sauvignon Blanc $19.95
Leyda Valley, Chile
(200 Cases of 6) (13.5%)  [Mar Ant]
Bright light straw colour. Attractive, grassy, ripe green peach and Anjou pear nose. Very crisp, dry, well structured, medium bodied, bright, grassy, ripe Anjou pear flavours with a fine grassy finish.
Drinkability: { N S SM } -- Lot: L8218A

Recommended **+/***
47605 Glaetzer 2006 Wallace Shiraz/Grenache $26.95
Barossa Valley, South Australia
(2560 Cases of 6) (15.8%)  [Fre Hou]
This blend of 70% Shiraz and 30% Grenache has a very deep intense purple red colour. Intense, spicy, fairly cedary, very juicy, black cherry nose. Dry, medium-full bodied, extracty, plummy, black cherry purée flavours with a long, lingering, cedary finish. Screwcap closure.
Drinkability: { n S SM M ML L xl }

Recommended **
684753 Porca De Murça 2004 Reserva Tinto $19.95
DOC Douro
(800 Cases of 6)  [HHD Imp]
This blend of Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional and Francesa has an extremely intense purple colour. Slightly cedary, spicy, plummy, blueberry nose with some mocha-chocolate notes. Solid, dry, well structured, medium to medium-full bodied, ripe, plummy, dark chocolate-cherry flavours with a harmonious, lingering finish. Better than the recommended 2003 (*+/**) released on November 10, 2007 at $17.95.
Drinkability: { N S SM M ml } -- Lot: L-8200