Vintage Assessments Home Page

Recent Articles

Archive of National Post Articles

Well-Priced Reds in Today’s Vintages Release
Great Syrah from California, France and Australia
© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, April 6, 2002
(full unedited version)

Today’s Vintages release features 140 items – an interesting list which, as they say, may amuse you by its presumption. Indeed, it’s a miracle how the Vintages Catalogue is able to dredge up flattering reviews for some seriously disappointing selections. That certainly wasn’t the case for the best buy red of today’s release - Voyager Estate 1999 Shiraz from Western Australia’s Margaret River -at only $21.55. The sweet, faintly smoky, black raspberry purée nose is followed up by complex, extracty, creamy, roasted plum and chocolate-cherry flavours that go on and on. Not only did Vintages not mention James Halliday’s rating of 94 out of 100 points, but also not a drop was presented to LCBO consultants or wine writers. Thanks to Voyager’s Ontario agent, Torion Trading was able to get a sample just in the nick of time for tasting. You can start lining up now for the 150 cases available.

Moving on to Pinot Noir, I can’t tell you how many times I have been disappointed by pricey efforts which failed to satisfy. Well excuse me, but Ironbark 2000 Pinot Noir from Australia’s Yarra Valley in Victoria at only $16.95 is a definite best buy. The nose is very expressive with spicy, cedary, red pepper purée and dried cherry notes. Its medium bodied, fairly intense, tangy, dried red pepper purée flavours show good persistence and balance.

Perhaps the most exciting inexpensive red of the release is a 100% Syrah from the French Midi Côtes du Roussillon region. At $14.30, the intense, licorice driven, smoky, even meaty Domaine de l’Auris 1999 represents terrific value. It is surprisingly rounded on the palate with a long, silky finish. The intense idiosyncratic flavours, however, are not for everyone. If it were twice the price, I would still recommend it! So go out and buy a bottle because at this price, you have nothing to loose. Match it with a flavourful rack of lamb or stew.

From Tuscany, the home of Chianti, we have an unusually accessible entry, which has tamed some of the peppery Sangiovese character. Available in halves ($8.95) or whole bottles at $16.80, Banfi 1999 Centine is another fine buy. The nose is quite complex with slightly earthy, chocolaty, sandalwood notes. The harmonious, plummy, red pepper flavours are offset with some cedar and red licorice. This blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is at its peak. Perfect with tomato-based pasta dishes or even rare roast beef.

Of course, not all selections are winners. If you value your palate, avoid all Ontario and Romanian reds in this release. Ditto for a very mediocre Beaujolais and under whelming Swiss Pinot Noir at $21.90. The same, however, cannot be said of a very tasty Lebanese blend of Syrah and Cinsault - Chateau Ksara 1999 Réserve du Couvent at $12.60. This tangy, plum-raspberry flavoured crowd pleaser would be perfect with smoky barbeque ribs.

Another great red for the barbeque is Verdun Estate 1999 Pinotage at $19.95. Originating in South Africa’s Stellenbosch region, this is their first bottling. It is very accessible with well-balanced, faintly smoky, delicious, ripe plum flavours. Only 1,250 cases of six were produced and Vintages wisely snapped up 360 of them.

The best red of the release is a Napa no-brainer. I was surprised to discover that Cain Five 1997 at $99.95 is actually worth the price. Unlike the climatically challenged 1998, this vintage is still standing strong. Ironically, this is really a ‘Cain Four’ sans Merlot based on Cabernet Sauvignon (87%) with11% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot and 1% and Malbec thrown in just to spice things up! It has a truly great nose with a well structured (14.1% alcohol) but still creamy with cedary, chocolaty, plummy, prune flavours. Absolutely delicious and ready to enjoy.

It’s too bad that it isn’t at this week’s upcoming annual California Wine Fair, which takes place on Wednesday, April 10th at Toronto’s Royal York Hotel. Of the 68 wines previewed in blind tastings, the Shiraz/Syrah group knocked my socks off. Without question, these wines (23 are on show) have the best quality-price ratios.

In particular, there were four outstanding reds. The smoky, rich, ripe Steele 1999 Shooting Star Lake Country Syrah at only  $23.95 reminded of an excellent Cornas from the Northern Rhone. Meridian 1999 Paso Robles Syrah at $27.00 seemed even be better than their lovely 1998, which was recently put on sale at Vintages. McDowell 1999 Reserve Syrah at $34.95 was rather firm, reminiscent of a fine Hermitage. I first tasted it while judging last year’s California State Fair. It won the “Best of Show” award, which is no mean feat when consider that there were 2,247 entries. Seven Peaks 1999 Paso Robles Shiraz at $19.95 is a definite best buy. It’s heartening to discover that it will make its LCBO debut on the general list later this month.

Finally, if there was one white to pass my lips, it would be the buttery, pear-driven, vanilla flavoured Gallo 1999 Sonoma Laguna Ranch Chardonnay at $29.95. It’s delicious with a capital D and at its peak!

The year’s Fair features 70 wineries and a whopping 250 wines (Press Here to see the list). The tasting/auction starts at 7 pm and goes until 9:30. Tickets are $50 - call the California Wine Institute at 1-800-558-2675.

Coming Up

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net