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The Best of Summer Sparklers
Finds at the LCBO
© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, August 14, 2004

It is that time of year again when I get a chance do a comparative blind tasting of sparkling wines on the LCBO general list. And what could be a more perfect than a sparkling lift on a warm, end-of-summer day. Wine writing colleague David Lawrason organized the tasting, which consisted of some 38 sparklers from six countries.

Starting off with Canada, there was not much to speak of on the LCBO general list. Nary a drop from BC, nor anything from Ontario that is worthy of a detour. We did not taste some half-dozen, inexpensive, sweetish, local Ontario-brewed bubblies. It seems that the folks who buy this stuff usually already know what they want.

To spice things up, Lawrason included a few Vintages items. The best was a Vintages quasi-Essential, or “rapid release” item - Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut (616458 $27.95). Inadvertently two bottles were tasted due to the fact that they looked totally different. One was released in Vintages on February 7, 2004 and came in a dark green bottle, while the other in a crystal clear bottle. We both scored the latter higher, although I was assured that they are both the identical wine. This isn’t self-evident as neither have a vintage date nor a lot code appearing on the bottle.

I am told this “non vintage” is a 1999 blend of 72% Chardonnay with 28% Pinot Noir that spent 30 months on the lees prior to being disgorged. On the palate it is quite dry with good sustaining effervescence and fine, fruity, ripe, blackberry-cherry flavours.

Moving on to the general list entries from California, Germany, Australia, Italy and France (other than Champagne); they were about as exciting as the stuff from Ontario – ranging from just OK to modestly undrinkable. At one point during our tasting, Maggie, David’s ever-friendly, recently shaved, bichon frisse, barks “woof, woof.” I nod in agreement. All three of us are obviously flustered by the shear mediocrity of what is available on the General List, meaning you should monitor the Vintages releases to get something decent.

Thankfully, things picked up once we hit Spanish Cava, which usually produces a bevy of best buys. I was trying to identify my favourite Codorniu Brut Clasico (503490 $11.10), which has consistently come out on top. It was toppled by Segura Viudas 2001 Brut Reserva (158493) at $12.60, which was the bargain of the day with its complex, ripe lemon nose complete with hints of buttered toast. At last, we have a reasonably priced sparkler with great effervescence and fairly dry, solid, maturing, ripe lemon flavours balanced by a tangy apricot marmalade finish. It rated more highly than some brands of Champagne costing four times the price! Another fine buy is Freixenet Brut Vintage 2000 (182014) at $16.05, which has nicely balanced, dry, crisp, bright, ripe lemon-citrus flavours.

As for the best Champagne, of the 9 tasted it is a draw between two first-class efforts: Charles Heidsieck 1998 Brut Champagne (31286) at $48.40, which has those wonderful hints of burnt toast, melted butter and key lime pie and Piper Heidsieck Brut Champagne (462432) at $44.95. National Post readers who love sparkling wine can get a free copy of the 228-page updated edition of Tom Stevenson’s Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide, usually priced at $24.50, free of charge (to download click here).

For bargain hunters, this weekend is your last chance to take advantage of the LCBO’s 115 Limited Time Offers. The best buy red is the Spanish Bodegas Piqueras 2000 Castillo de Almansa Reserva (270363 - $ 9.35 vs. $10.10). It has a deep purple colour and very mellow, ripe, Damson plum nose. Dry but nicely balanced, the reasonably well-structured, tangy, fresh plum flavours are reminiscent of an accessible Medoc, with just a hint of chalkiness.  This bargain priced red is a blend of Tempranillo and Monastrell and aged for 12 months in oak. It is considerably tastier than some overtly dry, hard, herb-tinged, 2000 Bordeaux currently on LCBO selves.

Don Quixote came from this huge Castillo-La Mancha region where Cervantes began writing his novel in the La Mancha jail! Albacete is one of the five provinces that make up this region and it is here where you find the Almansa wine area. Bodegas Piqueras is a family-owned operation dating back to 1915 and it simply buys its grapes from local growers. To see the list of other LTO products on sale until this Sunday, August 15^th click here.

Finally, talking about sales, here is your exclusive FBTI Supporter link to the Vintages Bin End Sale, which starts on Saturday, August 21^st. There are 199 items on sale with discounts ranging from 7% to 32%. Of the 25 whites, only 5 have not been tasted (note that you can see the full detailed review available for every product assessed). Of 156 reds, however, 118 wines or 75% have not been presented by the LCBO for evaluation. It is a shame that Ontario importers have not been more proactive in getting these wines sampled, reviewed and possibly sold! To see the list click here. Remember that if you want to check store availability using winefind.ca, all you have to do is click on the name of the wine.