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Perfect Wines to Match the Amorous Oyster
Tracking Down the Right Elixir for that Special Valentine
© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, February 2, 2002
Dedicated to Wiarton Willie on Groundhog Day (PS:  He didn’t see his shadow!)

With Valentine’s Day looming on the horizon, many are searching for that special “Love Potion Number 9.”  Unfortunately, if you have to resort to booze to win your lover you’re in pretty bad shape.  My advice, forget about relying on Absinthe’s magical green ferries or the seductive lure of Madeira. Simply brush up that personality - be charming and considerate.

There is no question that a romantic dinner with the right wines will kindle a fire in your partner’s eyes.  Unfortunately, many restaurants, especially the better ones, are packed with expectant diners.  Moreover, that gourmet meal can set you back hundreds of dollars and it may not even be great.

The solution is to cook up a storm for your sweetie.  My favourite starter is the amorous oyster – fresh, ice cold and slurped from the half shell still brimming with the essence of ocean water.  Naturally you have to get the right oysters, i.e. the ones that will truly tickle your partner’s fancy.  Then you have the challenge of shucking them.

Oysters are very much like wines; there are many varieties.  Just like wines, they reflect the environment in which they grow.  Some are mild and creamy; others crisp, lean and salty; they may even be herbal or metallic tasting. For my Amorous Oyster feature, it will be available to subscribers on the FBTI Member’s Only website section on Monday, February 4^th. Click Here

The best matching wines are fresh, unoaked, crisp whites. While a dry, rather austere Muscadet from the Loire is the cognoscenti’s choice; my own preference is something with a little more fruit.  Try Sauvignon Blanc, which has some grassiness; Pinot Blanc/Gris with its hints of apricot; or dry, New World Riesling with green peach, lemon and apple.  Of course, unoaked Chardonnay (i.e. Chablis or Pouilly Fuissé) also work well. Personally, I find that the sweetness of vanilla and tannins from the oak from many oak-aged, warmer, New World wineries do not marry well with the intense natural oyster flavours.

With so many questionable wines on the General List, it’s nice to see one terrific survivor, Marnier-Lapostelle 2000 Chateau de Sancerre.  This crisp, gently grassy, dried green pear flavoured elixir comes from the tiny Sancerre commune in the eastern reaches of the Loire.  Although not inexpensive at $21.90, it typifies the best that Sauvignon Blanc from the region can deliver and is sheer perfection with most oysters.

I taste tested a half dozen less expensive Sauvignon Blancs on the General List.  While they were pretty good, my favourite was Santa Ines 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, which hails from Chile and costs a mere $8.95.  A key to this wine’s marriage with oysters is its vibrant, fresh, lemony-grapefruit nose.  It’s dry on the palate with tangy, ripe lemon, melon flavour, which perfectly balance the bivalve’s briny ocean notes. 

Also keep in mind that there are some terrific buys in next Saturday’s Vintages release. For those who don’t live near Toronto or Ottawa, you will have to get your Vintages order into the local LCBO store by 11 am this coming Tuesday (a day earlier than last year).

The well-priced ($13.75) Domain Allimant-Laugner 1999 Riesling from Alsace is a definite oyster wine winner. The lime-tinged, dusty lemon nose shows lots of minerality.  On the palate, it’s very dry with lively, lemon-melon flavours that show excellent persistence.

From British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, there is the startlingly delicious Sandhill 2000 Burrowing Owl Vineyard Pinot Blanc.  It’s partly barrel fermented, costs a mere $13.95 and has slightly spicy, intense, dried pear flavours with a long lingering finish. With14% alcohol, it would be an ideal match for poultry.  Coming out on Saturday, February 9^th you will have to rush, as only 112 cases are available.

Perhaps even better value is the seductive, creamy, honeyed, pear purée flavoured Zenato 2000 Lugana San Benedetto.  At $12.80 it is my best buy of the release. While it may be a tad too floral and fruity for oysters, it would work perfectly with poultry, seafood or just for good old sipping.

As for next Saturday’s Vintages reds, it will be hard to beat the seductive, slightly smoky, ripe, back cherry flavours of Byron Vineyards 1998 Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir.  The best thing about popping the cork “chez nous” is that it would probably set one back $100 a bottle with taxes and tip in a restaurant.  Stay at home (say with a with a delicious rack of lamb) and it will only set you back $36.85.  

My recent lament for decent Burgundy (see January 19^th National Post feature) was past partly resolved last Wednesday. Those lucky to buy a ticket for 2002 Winter Classics preview (by far the best tasting deal in town at only $95) were treated to several well-priced Burgundies that would please the most discerning palate.  Favourites include the elegant, bright, dried red cherry flavoured Annick Parent 1999 Monthelie Champs Fulliot 1er Cru at $33. 

While orders for the latter will not be available until after Valentines Day (orders should be submitted by February 12th), there is an even better, previously released, Classics Burgundy now in a few LCBO stores. The well-structured Domaine Heresztyn Gevery-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 1998 was selected by expert Becky Wasserman.  Made from 30+ year old vines, it’s a steal at $43 - even I was moved to buy a few bottles of this sublime effort.

Moving on the sweetie department, I had a partial preview of next weekend’s 2000 icewine release. There is no need to hurry because a whack of icewine is still available, much of it considerably tastier than what’s hitting the shelves.  The delicious, sweet, creamy, ripe apple purée flavoured Magnotta 1999 Vidal Icewine is a bargain at $27.95 per half.  If you want a kick at the tire first, try small 50 ml size for $6.95.  Both are still available in Vintages.

Magnotta stores exclusively feature two tasty dessert fruit wines.  For strawberry fans, try the delightful Magnotta Fragola with its lingering, sweet, freshly baked, strawberry pie flavours. It was just released yesterday at $12.95 (half bottle). Even better is Magnotta Wild Berry at $16.95 (half bottle). Dense red in colour, it’s a wonderful tangy mélange of sweet cassis, blueberry, raspberry and strawberry. Both have 16% alcohol and might be served slightly chilled.  Call 905-738-9463.

Finally for chocolate fans, Magnotta Ice Grappa Chocolates (a box of seven $9.95) are winners - rich and chocolaty with a fine, dense, truffle-like, center.  At Southbrook Farms you can try framboise and cassis chocolates ($2.49 for 4).   There’s also the Southbrook Framboise Chocolate Gift Pack ($29.95), which has been offered through the LCBO and is at their Major Mackenzie store. It comes in either flavours (framboise or cassis) and consists of chocolates, a half bottle of dessert fruit wine and two fruit based jars of jam and thick chocolate topping.  Not only is it perfect for dessert, it can even be used by the adventurous for body painting. Now that’s an after dinner treat!

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net