Discovery of the Week
Vintages April Instore Discovery

 PINOT NOIR 1998
974287  $ 34.95 
Estate Bottled, Willamette Valley
( Tualatin Estate)  

For Pinot Noir fans, one which has been sadly languishing on the shelves from last April is Tualatin Estate 19998 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir in the LCBO’s sadly misguided Vintages "In-Store Discovery" program. It is slightly hot, fairly intense, still youthful, firm, dried cherry flavours are followed up with a Kirsch-like finish.  At $34.85, it isn’t bad value and good quantities remain at various stores around Toronto. My web site is the only place where you will be able to discover these hidden monthly releases. It’s a shame, both for the consumer and the producer, that so many of these items remain undiscovered.   [All Win]

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Unique Vintages Best Buys
Champers on sale
© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, June 1, 2002
(full unedited version)


Champagne anyone? Continuing until June 22nd, the LCBO in celebration of their 75th Anniversary is offering a number of classic bubblies at special reductions. Prices have been cut by just over 30% and there are eight items to choose from starting at $29.95. One of my favourites, the reliably tasty Pommery NV Brut Royal Champagne, has been reduced from $44.75 to only $29.95. This is fine value and would make the perfect June 16th Father’s Day gift.

For that special “big” or “sugar” daddy, where no expense is to be spared, the 3-litre (four bottle jeroboam) of Piper Heidsieck Champagne (reduced from $199.95 to $139.95) will definitely make a splash. Unfortunately, I have not had an opportunity to recently evaluate all the brands up for grabs, so are you are on your own.

For my own taste, I like my bubbles only gently chilled. Ice-cold Champagne will never show its flavours. Now that may be a good thing if you are gulping down some no name substitute, but it really is a waste when it comes to the real thing. Don’t forget that the glass matters. I prefer a flute with very thin glass, which enables the wine to glide smoothly on the palate. Keep in mind that if the flute’s opening is too narrow, exploding carbon dioxide laden bubbles may overwhelm the nose. By experimenting, you can discover which glass is best.

Moving on to today’s Vintages release, 72 items are up for grabs. One of the big surprises is the reappearance of Château des Charmes 1998 Savagnin St. David’s Bench Vineyard at $14.95. This white first appeared in Vintages more than two years ago – April 2000! Under most circumstances, I would have expected it to be in serious decline. Well what a surprise, the wine is better than before. The dry, spicy, ripe apricot fruit flavours show very good intensity and length. The key is high extract and acidity, which has enabled it to survive the ravages of time. Only 490 cases were produced and it would go well with seafood or poultry. 

If you have never heard of the Savagnin grape, you are probably not alone. Supposedly related to Traminer, it is a specialty of the French Jura; a small, somewhat mountainous region situated between Burgundy and Switzerland. Its claim to fame is that it is used in the production of Château-Châlon, a long-lived Vin Jaune; a distinctive, somewhat oxidative, nutty tasting white that is reminiscent of Sherry.

Another obscure, albeit well priced white worth considering comes from the Italian Marches or Marche region. Velenosi 2000 “Vigna Solaria” Falerio at $12.95 gives Verdicchio, the region’s most famous white (which is made from a local grape with the identical name) a good run for the money. Falerio must be exclusively made from Trebbiano grapes. This one is grown in Velenosi’s 16-year old vineyard, which is located on the sunniest and highest point of the property. From these ripe grapes comes a fine fruit-driven white with 13.5% alcohol. It has a lovely nose focused on spicy, pear purée with hints of cedar. On the palate, it is nicely structured with rounded, ripe pear flavours. This great spring quaffer is at its peak.

There are two best buy whites under $10. The first is from the Bairrada region of Portugal, Messias 2000 Selection at $ 8.30. It is another underdog white which will confound your friends who are addicted to Australian/California Chardonnay. Made from Maria Gomes and Bical, the fine, expressive, bright lime and lemon aromas leap from the glass. Its tangy, fresh, tangerine-grapefruit flavours are at their peak.

The second best buy white which comes from South Africa’s Western Cape. Lyngrove 2001 Collection Chardonnay at $9.95. Its light, bright and refreshing, straightforward, red apple and green pear flavours makes it a perfect choice for sultry summer days.

Shifting gears, the four new rosés appearing today are aptly designated as “sunset in a glass” by Vintages. My favourite is Henry of Pelham 2001 Dry Rosé 2001 ($10.95) and it has been selected as their wine of the month. This invigorating VQA Niagara Peninsula blend of 45% Zweigelt, 33% Gamay and 22% Merlot is bright, crisp and fruity. With just 12% alcohol, a frosty glass will go well with just about anything.

The best buy red of the first Vintages wave is Capezzana 2000 Barco Reale di Carmignano at $16.70. At a time when Chianti Classico seems to be pricing itself out of the market, it is a joy to discover a fine, robust but rounded Sangiovese from the rather miniscule Carmignano region only a few kilometers north west of Florence.

What is surprising is that this was the only Tuscan DOC to actually require the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon at a time (1975) when these grapes were relatively rare in Italy. It achieved DOCG status in 1990. This blend of 70% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet and 10% Canaiolo has slightly earthy, ripe black cherry flavours will match robust tomato based dishes. 

 
Carmignano

It’s sister wine, the still very youthful Villa di Capezzana 1998 Carmignano ($81 for a pack of three) is the June Vintages “Cellar Direct” selection and can be ordered by phone as of June 7th. It costs $27 and, quite frankly, I enjoyed the less expensive 2000 Barco Reale more, at least for the moment. It has no Canaiolo and only 15% Cabernet.

Last but not least is a fairly decent Burgundy, Domaine Christopher Newman 1999 Côte-De-Beaune La Grand Châtelaine at $23.90. The crisp, medium-light bodied, tangy, dried ripe cherry, cranberry and ruby grapefruit flavours dance on the tongue. The Pinot Noir character comes through nicely and, just to make sure, you will find Pinot Noir printed on the front label - something that cannot be done legally on labels for the French market.

 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
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