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Face-Off Time for Summer Whites
From Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay
© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, June 12, 2004

This month’s Vintages release sees the emergence of many Sauvignon Blanc from a variety of sources. They can vary immensely in style and this release has its share of disappointments, which includes the bitter tasting Creekside 2002 Sauvignon Blanc (572206 now reduced to $14.95) from Ontario and the tart, malic Pecorta 2002 Sauvignon Blanc L’Artiste (998443 $19.95) from California. I would also take a pass on Cloudy Bay 2003 Sauvignon Blanc (304469), which is definitely overpriced at $31.95. Leave the 350 cases for label-focused restaurateurs who will pass it off to their customers for up to $100 a bottle.

Fortunately, there are a number of much better priced wines worthy of a gander. In fact, it’s a summer face off between two very different styles. At one end of the rink comes Wither Hills 2003 Sauvignon Blanc (920074 $19.95), which hails from the Marlborough region of New Zealand’s South Island. It has that classic, intense, grassy, ripe lemon nose followed up by very dry, extremely crisp, faintly honeyed, spicy, ripe lemon and tangy green pear flavours. This bright, thirst-quencher is perfect for those hot summer days.

The opponent at the other end of the rink comes from the Napa Valley. I found that it didn’t quite fit into either the traditional New World mould, nor for that matter, the old world style either. St. Supéry 2002 Sauvignon Blanc (339663 $24.95) has won a variety of awards when it was in peak condition last year and still seems to be holding up pretty well, at least in full bottles. It is important to keep in mind that as useful as half bottles are, the untasted halves at a pricier $13.95 (712448) are susceptible to faster aging and may not be quite as fresh. Look for an intense, spicy, lemony, rhubarb-driven nose and dry, fairly rich, bright, ripe Anjou pear flavours with a tangy finish. This flavourful effort will stand up to a variety of appetizers.

Two whites from southwest France are good buys. The first is the very reasonably-priced 2003 Domaine de Maubet (704916 $ 9.95) - a blend of 48% Colombard, 40% Ugni Blanc and 12% Gros Manseng. This pale straw coloured Vin de Pays (VdP) des Côtes de Gascogne is light in alcohol (11.5%) is meant for immediate drinking. Look for a very gently honeyed, spicy, grapefruit, warm melon nose. It is dry, crisp and quite light bodied with pleasant, lemon-melon flavours and a refreshingly tangy finish. Perfect with oysters and seafood.

Once again in a totally different style is a much more substantial VdP des Côtes de Gascogne, this time coming from an earlier vintage accompanied by some barrel aging. I was swept off my feet with the wonderfully flavoured 2001 Domaine du Tariquet ‘Cuvée Bois’ (626499 $16.95) a June “InStore Discovery” release highlight. This complex effort is a blend of five grape varieties, all aged in barrels for six months: Colombard, Ugni Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc along with Gros Manseng and Chardonnay, which are actually fermented and then matured in barrels. It has lovely, lemon meringue, rhubarb and Anjou pear on the nose. On the palate it is bright and dry with gently cedary, ripe Bosc pear flavours and a very pretty finish. It is now at its peak and can be enjoyed by itself or with a wide variety of dishes.

Moving on, for Chardonnay fans the best of the release comes from Italy’s Umbria region. Unfortunately, Antinori 2001 Cervaro Della Sala (512376 $52.95) isn’t cheap but it is very well made. Deep yellow colour, the nose has great appeal with gently toasty, ripe lime purée notes. Intense and well structured on the palate, the ripe lemon-lime purée flavours show excellent persistence.

An unusual Canadian entry comes from Vincor and is basically a blend of VQA Chardonnay from BC’s Okanagan Valley with one from the Niagara Peninsula. It is not yet entitled to VQA status and was originally launched last November through Wine Rack stores. Unity 2001 Chardonnay (606608 $24.95) is fair value with its very toasty, slightly tropical, baked apple nose. Dry, spicy and bright, the coconut-tinged, ripe lemon-pineapple flavours linger on the palate.

The hand’s down release best buy, however, comes from Argentina’s Mendoza - Bodega Catena Zapata 2003 Alamos Chardonnay (925743 $12.95). It has a really great nose - complex, slightly smoky, buttered toast with ripe apricot and dried pear fruit. On the palate it is very bright and nicely structured with fairly juicy, very slightly sweetish, cedary, lemon-pineapple-lime flavours. This ready to drink crowd pleaser is a perfect quaffer and will go well with poultry as opposed to seafood.

Last but not least is the best Champagne of the summer, the kind of thing you might buy for that very special discerning dad as a Father’s Day gift.

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