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Two monthly Vintages releases
How not to double your fun!

© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, May 18, 2002
(full unedited version)

I am sure that most of you are aware that the monthly Vintages release has now been split up into two parts. The first release of 79 products took place on May 4th, while the balance of 85 products (including 13 special Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines) is being released today. 

According to the LCBO this is “to provide greater opportunity” for the customer and reduce “release day rush.” Of course, it now means two trips a month to the Vintages store instead of just one. Increased frequency of visits will mean more LCBO revenue, which is likely to be the real reason behind this move. 

As for helping the customer, as one person put it, “I can now have the opportunity of lining up and being disappointed at not getting my chosen wines twice as often as before.” In addition, Vintages decision to produce two totally separate listings, rather than combine them under single country/subregion headings along with a release date code, has made things more difficult than ever. The May 4th releases, for instance, are forgotten about as soon as you start looking at the May 18th selection. Flipping back and forth is pain in the ---!

Before digging into the wines, let me suggest that perfect gift for someone turning 20 – something that is likely to last a lifetime. It’s Laubade 1982 Bas Armagnac a fine buy at $114.95. This golden amber coloured spirit has a lovely, sweet, rounded, buttered toast nose with hot, smooth, caramel notes on the palate. Unlike a wine, it can keep almost indefinitely.

From my ABC (anything but chardonnay) feature two weeks ago, today’s mission is to reveal May’s best Chards. The surprising well-structured Santa Ines 1999 Chardonnay Reserva Legado de Armida at only $14.95 (350 cases) should not be missed. Quite frankly, given its deep yellow colour, I was expecting it to be mature - perhaps over the hill. But what a nice surprise. The nose was intense and cedary with vanilla driven, orange marmalade and coconut pie notes. On the palate this Maipo Valley white was rich, spicy and mouth filling with a faint tropical fruit cocktail taste. Showing lots of persistence, these are perfect flavours to toast the season finale of Survivor this Sunday.

On the other hand, California, which is home of the X Files (the final episode takes place Sunday night as well), has three strong Sonoma Chard contenders. The “truth may be out there” but it doesn’t come cheaply. My favourite (and highest scoring of the half dozen in the Catalogue) was Rutz Cellars 1997 Chardonnay at $29.90 from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The nose shows lots of complexity and finesse – shades of Grand Cru Chablis. It is solid and well structured on the palate with 14.2% alcohol. The dried ripe lemon flavours and lingering hazelnut purée finish are sufficiently intense enabling it to work with white meats – i.e. a grilled lamb chop.

If key lime pie and dried pear flavours turn you on, then make a beeline to another Sonoma Valley winner. Clos du Bois 2000 Chardonnay Reserve at $27.90 comes from the Alexander Valley and is loaded with tangy, medium bodied, slightly tart, dried ripe pear fruit on the palate. It’s no slouch either with 14.1% alcohol.

Finally, there is La Crema 2000 Chardonnay at $26.95 from the Sonoma Coast. With just a tad less alcohol (13.7%), you will find that it shows good accessibility with very bright, spicy, ripe lemon-pear flavours followed up by a lingering, slightly cedary, creamy finish.

For those who shun TV altogether, there is a delicious little ditty from Italy’s Veneto. While it may not be all Chardonnay, 35% of the blend is Garganega; Bertani 2000 Le Lave is a definite winner even at $18.90. The nose is quite lovely with fresh, ripe pear, subtle hints of melted butter and a pinch of vanilla. On the palate its dry, bright, lively Anjou pear flavours are followed up by a refreshing lingering finish. It would be great with seafood - a refreshing refrain from a world afloat in oaky Chards.

Decisions, decisions - so many wines, so little time

You have until Wednesday May 22 - 5 pm for the Spring/Summer 2002 Classics fax/mail/e-mail ordering deadline. Some 524 items are featured of which 341 are new. Unfortunately, the LCBO preview took place yesterday – too late for today’s column.

Nevertheless, I made a brief appearance at Vintages sold out Classics pre-tasting at Toronto’s ROM. I feel sorry for fans that missed this event. Not only was it the best ever yet with great food, but I also discovered a couple of terrific whites. One in particular from the northern Rhone at only $24 captivated my palate. The tiny region of Saint-Péray produces Marsanne and Roussanne based whites, which rarely turn heads. Well excuse me, 2000 Saint-Péray Les Bailères is definitely worth a detour. Its honeyed, ripe, fresh apricot-pear purée flavours will put a new spin on Spring.

Ditto for the even less expensive 1999 Anjou Varenne du Poirier. At only $16, this steal from the Loire is brimming with refined, fresh melon, pear and apricot fruit flavours.

Finally with the New Zealand wine fair coming to town (see below), astute buyers are patiently waiting to personally taste Vintages releases for themselves. Indeed, this may be the only place to sample some Vintages wines, which will not be evaluated. A prime example is Palliser 2001 Sauvignon Blanc at $15.55, which will be appearing on June 1st (399 cases). This along with 23 other Sauvignon Blancs will be sampled at the fair.

Those who wait, however, may find an empty Vintages cupboard. Today’s release of Babich 2001 Sauvignon Blanc at $15.55, for instance, in not likely to last. Its grassy, ripe, gooseberry aromas and very crisp, light bodied, refreshing, lemony-gooseberry flavours are bound to thrill fans of this grape. The lingering unoaked finish is best with seafood.

Planning Ahead: The 2002 New Zealand Wine Fair comes to town once again, this time bigger than ever featuring 26 wineries and 86 wines. In order to reduce congestion, it is being held on two nights - Monday, May 27 and Tuesday, April 28 from 7:00 - 9:30 pm at Alice Fazooli’s (294 Adelaide Street West). The cost (which includes food) is $50 wine club members / $55 others.  You can see the  detailed list of wines being presented and register on my web site  For further information call (705) 444-5255.

 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net