Vintage Assessments Home Page

Archive of National Post Articles

Sign-up Now!

Get all the evaluations for the December  Release
Subscribe to Vintage Assessments today by Clicking Here
This not-for-profit website is dedicated to the discerning reader!

Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau
The Upcoming 51st Birthday Bash

© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, November 16, 2002

For some, this week’s celebration of November’s third Thursday isn’t worthy of a raised eyebrow. They couldn’t give a hoot about this 51st Beaujolais Nouveau birthday bash. Indeed, these naysayers sneeringly refer to it as the most over hyped, non-wine-event of the year. Nevertheless, somebody out there loves Nouveau. A virtual explosion of wine takes place this week as over 60 million bottles are instantaneously shipped from their native villages north of Lyon to every nook and cranny in France and all around the world.

For me, just the thought of a cool, refreshing, crisp glass or two or three is just what the good doctor ordered. There is nothing better for cheering up our ever shorter, frosty November days, especially when served with hearty fall fare. While there are many pretenders, Gamay is the king of nouveau grapes.

To test the waters, I did a comparative blind tasting earlier this week (November 13th to be precise) of several Nouveau classics. The hand’s down winner was Georges Duboeuf 2002 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau, which is only available at Vintages at $14.95. If you are searching for the perfect example of the tangy, slightly zesty, fresh plum and dried red cherry flavours that caused all this Beaujolais madness to begin with, then look no further. It has consistently been the best of the release and this one shouldn’t be missed.

On the general list we have a perfectly acceptable Mommessin 2002 Beaujolais Nouveau at $12.95 with crisp, light bodied, red apple and hot plum flavours. The “vive le vin, vive l’amour”.label is a definite winner with its singing cat, dancing rabbits and ducks.
 

In terms of best buys, however, it is going to be impossible to beat Georges Duboeuf 2002 Gamay Nouveau at $9.20. This Vin de Pays (VdP) de L’Ardèche from the right bank of the Rhone. The 2002 is better than last year’s rather light, tart effort and is stylistically similar to its pricier northern cousins. Made in the classic carbonic maceration technique, you would have to be an expert to tell the difference between this and the real thing!

As for the other previewed Nouveau, I am sad to report that Jeanjean 2002 Arabesque Syrah Nouveau Primeur a VdP D’Oc at $8.95 did not live up to last year’s “best buy” status. Foul weather conditions produced a lighter, leaner, albeit still pleasant red that is a great match to grilled sausages. A whopping 444,000 cases of the stuff was released in France on the earlier October16th release date.

Overall, I am heartened by the fact that Beaujolais Nouveau has improved – it had to! Last summer more than 13 million bottles (about 7 percent of total production) of unsold, inferior 2001 stock had to be destroyed.

Today there are thousands of Nouveau-styled wines, not only from Southern France, but also from all over the world. From Italy, for instance, we have Novello, which once attracted a substantial local following. Unfortunately, some LCBO selections have been far from stellar. Negrar Novello del Veneto, which is made from Corvina and Rondinella, has all too often ended up near the bottom it terms of comparative quality. It is too bad that better, more deserving wines can’t get into the market!

Here in Ontario, only Chateau des Charmes has produced any Nouveau worth drinking. The key question is whether Chateau des Charmes 2002 Gamay Noir Nouveau at only $8.95 would live up to last year’s 2001 stunner, which was the best since 1998. “This year’s Gamay has terrific ripeness and concentration,” says Paul Bosc, Sr. “We had a whopping 13.4% alcohol. It is being bottled today (just one week prior to the release).”

It is bottled so late because Bosc believes that a longer/cooler (24˚ C.) two-week carbonic maceration/fermentation (vs. three days in France at 31˚) produces fruitier wines. The downside is that it usually takes a few weeks for a wine to settle down. Indeed, the sample of 2002 tasted this week was quite awkward and much less fruity than the 2001. Final updated evaluations will be posted on the web site during the coming week.

As for events, I have only received a single e-mail notice. The French Chamber of Commerce annual Beaujolais bash at the Ontario Club takes place this Thursday from 6:30-10:30 pm $35 in advance/$40 at the door (call 416-205-9820). They hope to get a thousand plus people out making it the biggest event of its kind outside of France.

As for today’s Vintages release, remember my B.C. best buy - Blue Mountain 2000 Pinot Noir at $21.95. I only have two other red recommendations. The first is the deliciously accessible Cave Spring 1999 Cabernet/Merlot at only $18.95. I awarded it a Gold Medal (91 points) at the 2002 Canadian Wine Awards (Click Here to see all the results). It has a dusty, fairly rich, ripe plum purée nose with hints of smoke, red pepper purée and some cedar. On the palate it is well balanced with ripe plums, vanilla, chocolate and ripe black cherry flavours.

The other is the wonderful José Maria da Fonseca 1995 Periquita Clássico 1999 at $22.95. This excellent Portuguese effort from the Terras do Sado region just south of Lisbon is made exclusively from the Castelão Frances (aka Periquita) grape, which has been aged 10 months in new French oak. It is solid, dry and well balanced with spicy, mouthfilling, plumy, red cherry and sandalwood flavours. Only 200 cases of six are available. 

Nouveau in Quebec vs. Ontario

A quick comparison of what is happening in Quebec at the SAQ vs. the LCBO shows how poorly Ontario consumers are served. In Ontario we have 9 items vs. 17 at the SAQ. In terms of the best wine tasted Georges Duboeuf 2002 Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau - it is cheaper at the SAQ $13.95 vs. $14.95 here. Better yet, the SAQ web site (saq.com) not only provides you with a detailed descriptive list, but also as of November 14th lets you order your Nouveau in advance to be delivered to any address on November 21st. Moreover, there is no charge if the order is over $50. Now that's service! In many instances the LCBO can’t even be bothered sending your wine to your local store never mind having it delivered to your home!

Nouveau tastings will take place at the following LCBO outlets: Queens Quay (11 am-1 pm), Fairview Mall (12-2);  Kingsway (11-3), Millcroft (11-2); Bayview Village (11 - 5).



Here is the list of the nine Nouveau wines at the LCBO

GENERAL LIST

France
Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau • $12.95 – 2,250 cases (Aut Win)
Jeanjean Arabesque Syrah Nouveau Primeur VdP D’Oc • $8.95 – 2, 200 cases (Eur Age)

Best Buy!
Georges Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau (VdP) de L’Ardèche • $9.20 – 1,400 cases (Phi Dan)

Italy
Negrar Novello del Veneto IGT 750 mL $8.70 – 2,200 cases (Sch Age)

Ontario
Chateau des Charmes Gamay Nouveau VQA • $8.95 – 2,000 cases (Cha Des)
Pelee Island Gamay Noir Nouveau VQA • $8.95 – 2 cases (Pel Isl)



VINTAGES STORES AND VINTAGES SECTIONS

France
Recommended!
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau • $14.95 – 2,100 cases (Phi Dan)
Domaine de L’Eperon Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau Bouchacourt • $14.95 – 300 cases (Aca Bra)

Italy
Vino Novella Concilio • $9.95 – 600 cases (Maj Win)

 

Vintages December 2002 Release
To see the complete list of upcoming products click here
. It includes the number of cases, which wines were presented by the LCBO, our agent ID for every product, as well as, special unannounced In Store Discoveries” for November.
You can also see it sorted by agent
click here  

 

Check out the
November 2002 InStore Discovery

 

Subscribe to Vintage Assessments TodayClick Here

 

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net