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Coming Up in the Classics 
Boning up on the best of bubblies

© Michael Vaughan 2003
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
 Saturday, September 14, 2002

www.winefind.ca
(All wines/spirits listed below are automatically linked to the lcbo database) 
If there is a product that interests you,
just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

There are so many wine events happening, one is tempted to throw in the wine glass. Next Wednesday, September 18th, at 5 pm to be precise, we have the fax/mail deadline for ordering from September’s Classics Catalogue. Judging by last Monday’s sold-out preview tasting turnout, some of the better buys might be running low by the time you read this, as “hard” ordering at the preview was permitted.

Before suggesting any best buys, I want to report a number of changes at Classics. First, there was the abrupt July departure of Lloyd Evans, the LCBO’s long-time wine expert in residence and official shepherd to the Classics since its inception. Secondly, there will now be two fall releases – this one and the “Holiday 2002” edition. If you wish to plan ahead, you can book your preview tasting ticket for October 30th (same time, same place) for $95 by calling 1-800-266-4764.

Also sorely missed are the little triangles, which have been featured in every Classics catalogue, except in the current one. These denoted a previously released product and enabled readers to tell what was new - an extremely helpful tool for repeat buyers. This was done so as not to hinder sales of previously featured products. I am happy to report, however, that after lodging my concern with Vintages, I have been informed that they will be coming back. 

An example of this is the Champagne section where 4 entries are listed. When I checked with the previous Spring/Summer catalogue, I discovered that there is only one new selection, Roederer Cristal Rosé 1995 at $329. Unfortunately, I have not tasted it. We are informed by the LCBO that a mere 20,000 bottles were made. Now let’s see, in LCBO loonie dollars that’s worth $6.6 million – not bad at all!

The best Champagne buy is Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut Champagne Cuvée Sans Dosage at only $49. Unfortunately, my order placed last May from the Spring/Summer Classics at a bargain basement $32 was turned down. I was told that it was “no longer available.” In fact, what happened was that the Classics published $32 price was based on a FOB case price of only six, not twelve, bottles (as the LCBO had assumed). 


This error was detected after the Catalogue had gone to print and a hold was put on all sales. This was obviously too good to be true as the LCBO had a virtual store at Santé last May was taking orders at $62.85 a bottle. To say Santé sales were sluggish, especially when the same wine was appearing at $32, is an understatement. Even more unbelievable, is that agents had to buy back any unsold stock (i.e. almost all of it) and were then told by the LCBO that these same bottles must not be resold!

Those wishing to bone up on the best of bubblies are advised to pick up a copy of the highly recommended Tom Stevenson’s Champagne & Sparkling Wine Guide (2002 4th edition). I had an extremely difficult time trying to track this quintessential soft cover down, being unable to find a single copy in Toronto. It came out in February of this year, originally by a UK publisher and is now produced by the Wine Appreciation Guild in California. After I started harassing the Canadian distributor three months ago, it has finally shown up at the Cookbook Store at $24.50 (416-920-2665) The latter is now the pre-discount retail price in Canada, so ignore the $19.95 price printed on the back jacket which was obviously based on a stronger dollar. It is also worth mentioning that Barnes & Noble is charging $19.96 US for it on their website!

This extremely useful 240-page guide provides you with comprehensive, recently-updated tasting notes by Stevenson, who is one of the best, independent, sparkling wine authorities in the world. His previous book Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling is another terrific, albeit slightly out of date volume (published in 2001 and based on notes prepared in 2000), is currently on sale on the Chapters/Indigo website at only $56.66 (regular $80.95). In fact, all books over $30 on the Chapters/Indigo website are now reduced by 30%! (For some reason they incorrectly stated that this book was published in June 2002 – it wasn’t and that error has now been corrected.) To order this book from Chapters/Indigo click here

Getting back to some best buys from the upcoming Classics. I was knocked out by one of the finest Pinot Noirs to come out of California - Sanford 1999 Pinot Noir Barrel Select La Rinconada with extremely seductive, sandalwood-tinged, supple, ripe black cherry purée flavours. This is the first single vineyard to be released by Sanford (Santa Barbara County) and it is a definite winner. It is unfiltered and made from Burgundian 667 and 777 clones. Despite the high 14% alcohol, it is beautifully balanced by high 7.1gpl total acidity. This gold medal winner received my highest 3 star rating! There is no question that at $69, it may not be for everyone (although it sells for $50 US at the winery). Nevertheless, this is one of those unique bottles that is actually worth the price being charged.

I am not sure the same is true of Penfolds 1997 Grange, which fetches $250. I have never tasted a more forward, softer, more accessible Grange in my life. The nose is very attractive with very toasty, slightly spicy, coconut cream pie notes. It may, of course, be going through one of those cycles where it closes up, but both bottles sampled certainly seemed ready to drink.



Also ready to drink, this time from Napa is a well-priced
von Strasser 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain Estate at $63. Here is a successful, rather plushy, almost creamy, well-balanced, ripe plum purée effort from a challenging vintage. Having tasted his firmer (and pricier) more recent vintages, this would be the perfect choice for a rare steak. To see the Robert Groh portfolio click here www.robgroh.com

Of the many Ontario Classic red entries, some of which seemed a bit uneven, I was impressed with both Thirty Bench 1999 Benchmark Reserve reds at $45. The 1999 Reserve Blend was complex, earthy and chocolaty, while the very tasty 1999 Cabernet Franc had tangy, well-structured, plumy, rhubarb crumble flavours. The Henry of Pelham 1998 Cabernet/Merlot Speck Family Reserve ($50) was very refined, leaning in a Bordelaise direction with chocolate, lead pencil and ripe plums. More reviews will be appearing in the near future. 

 

2001-2002-2003 Tasting Note Database

Our tasting note database from December 3 1, 2000 to November 2003, covers every Vintages release product for the past 34 months. There are more than 5,000 notes in the database data. Just enter the name of the product, supplier name or CSPC number. Or you can search by type of wine, country of origin, even wine agent! Nothing could be easier. Also you can get information on the agent by clicking on the agent’s name, as well as current LCBO store inventory by clicking on "Check LCBO Availability", which will automatically tell you the number of bottles at LCBO as of last night.

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Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net