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A Serious, Delicious, Head-Turning Rosé
© Michael Vaughan 2004
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, September 18, 2004

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www.winefind.ca
(CLICK ON THE NAME - All listings are automatically linked to the LCBO database)
If there is a product that interests you, just click on the name below and you will instantaneously connected with the LCBO database. The product will appear in blue and all you have to do is click on the name again and then the next screen will provide details along with the store search. Just click on store search. The number of bottles in each store is updated nightly. You should call the store first to see if stock still remains (each store phone number is listed).

Today’s September Vintages release features a number of gems that shouldn’t be missed. First and foremost is a remarkably delicious rosé from New Zealand - by far the best I have tasted this year! Unfortunately, some misguided souls still snub pink wines. While there may be a number of flavourless rosés out there, this isn’t one of them.

In fact, if I had one “must visit” in the Hawkes Bay region, the stunning Sileni Estate winery would be at the top of the list. Not only because of its great wines, but also because it has one of the best restaurants and diverse gastro-porn shops in all of New Zealand featuring a stunning array of outstanding products, including terrific New Zealand olive oils and honey.

Winemaker Grant Edmonds has done an amazing job with Sileni 2003 Cellar Selection Saignée Rosé (599951) at $14.95. Made from Merlot grapes, a portion of the free run juice was “bled” (or saignée in French) before being put into the vat to “cold soak’ with the grape skins (where it will pick up the needed colour and tannin to make a good red). The reddish pink juice was then fermented in oak barrels and the result is heavenly: a nose with slightly spicy, fruit driven, ripe raspberry-cherry-plum fruit. It is well structured on the palate with lovely, juicy, ripe cherry-raspberry flavours and a touch of cassis on the lingering finish. The screwcap enclosure has ensured that it retains its freshness.

Fine 2002 Loire Whites – The Best Since 1997

Moving on to whites, today sees the release of two fine efforts – one coming from each end of the elongated Loire region of France. If you happen to travel the 1,000-kilometre journey from the mountains of Ardèche in the east to the Bay of Biscay, you can’t help but notice the dramatic stylistic regional differences in the wines. After a number of challenging vintages, it is nice to see that the 2002 Loire are back in stride qualitatively speaking.

From the mouth of the Loire, which spills into the Atlantic, comes the tasty, crisp, unoaked 2002 Château De La Ragotiere Sélection Vieilles Vignes (699660) at $15.95. It is produced by Les Frères Couillaud from the Melon de Bourgogne grape in the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sub region, which is the largest appellation in the Loire. The “sur lie” designation means that during the fermentation process, the wine is exposed to the yeast lees deposits at the bottom of the tank adding complexity and texture to what might otherwise be rather light. In this case, it is bottled directly off its lees from the barrels giving it an initial touch of lively pétillance from trapped carbon dioxide.

While very pale straw in colour, the nose is youthful with slightly honeyed, fresh melon aromas. On the palate it is very dry and tangy with ripe lemon-melon flavours showing good vibrancy and length. It was a best buy in the Wine Spectator last year scoring 89 points, which is pretty good for something that goes for $11US. A terrific food wine, it excels with seafood and fresh oysters.

At the most easterly end of the Loire is the Pouilly-Fumé region, which along with its neighbor Sancerre, is famous for Sauvignon Blanc. 2002 Domaine Des Fines Caillotes Pouilly-Fumé (695908) at $26.95 may strike some as being a bit on the high side of the price equation, but Jean Pabiot’s white is still good value when one considers what is in the bottle. Also light straw in colour, the nose shows very good intensity with nutty, ripe lemon and lime fruit. Crisp, dry and well structured, the lemony, ripe pear flavours show excellent persistence.

Also from the Loire is a tasty little bubbly made in the classic Champagne style. At only $19.95 Château de Montguéret Crémant de Loire Brut (641357) is a winner. It is dry, crisp and nicely structured with tangy, ripe pear and baked lemon flavours that show good intensity and persistence.

A Tasty California Red Now Under $20

One of several red highlights in today’s release is Cline 2001 Ancient Vines Carignane (943142) at $19.95 (down from $23.95 from just a year ago). From California’s Contra Costa County, this cedar-sandalwood-coconut driven effort has a significant 14.4% alcohol (down from 15.1% for the previously shipped 1999 and 1997 vintages). Made from 100-year-old vines, the nose exudes ripe black cherry and cranberry fruit. It is rich and mouth filling with fruit-driven, lingering, cassis-black cherry flavours, which can evolve for a number of years.

Great French Classics at Good Prices

Those searching for a great Rhone with finesse should track down Alain Jaune’s Domaine Grand Veneur 2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines (989061) at only $29.95. This robust blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 30% Mourvèdre is solid and yet accessible with slightly earthy, ripe Damson plum purée, dried strawberries and sun dried tomato flavours. Bordeaux fans should not miss a classic Graves, 2000 Chateau de Chantegrive (695437) at $34.95. Firm, dry and flavourful, the plumy, dried red cherries, lime and sundried tomato flavours show excellent persistence. With wines like this, who needs futures?

Icewine For Dessert

Finally, visitors attending the Toronto film festival will have happy vinous memories by picking up a half bottle of the September Vintages release of Cave Spring 2002 Riesling Icewine (447441) at $59.95. This estate bottled Bench-grown Riesling has a spicy, gently sweet, tropical fruit cocktail nose. On the palate it is quite rich and well structured with spicy, tangy and yet still fairly creamy, juicy, tropical fruit cocktail flavours.

Coming Up

Wednesday, September 22 is a busy day. First there is the German Trade-Only Tasting featuring the 2003 vintage (117 wines from 19 wineries). It is held at Roy Thomson Hall, North Lobby - 60 Simcoe St. from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm. For the list of wines being presented click here. Trade members can register with Ron Fiorelli at 905-815-1581 or email rfiorelli@sympatico.ca.