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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan  

No need to beware the whites of March, or the reds

(Publishing Date: Saturday, February 26 - Toronto Section)

Next Saturday the monthly madness starts once again. For some, if you happen to live outside the greater Toronto or Ottawa region, it’s this Wednesday at 11 am This is the cutoff time for orders for stores not within these metropolitan areas. What happens is that the LCBO allocates a percentage of its stock for customers who do not have regular access to the Vintages stores and boutiques. For this reason I am going you the advance lowdown on some of next weeks best buys.

Having waded through 112 new products in four tasting lab sessions, here’s my choice of the whites worth drinking.  The Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Gris (which in turn is a relative of Pinot Noir, the royal red Burgundy).  It’s used to mistaken for Chardonnay and is normally highly cropped, often producing a pleasant if somewhat indifferent wine. Next Saturday sees the debut of 1997 Strewn Barrel Aged Pinot Blanc at $12.50.  Straight from the Niagara Peninsula, this is not a VQA for wimps – it’s surprisingly complex, rich and toasty with sufficient melon-lemon fruit to balance the oak. Great for white meats and poultry, this is the last 168 cases that exist so you’re advised to dig in and give it a try!

It seems the world has become infatuated with Viognier, the grape the made Chateau Grillet of the Rhone famous (or was it the other way around). Viognier at its best has a delicate personality and is not known for its ability to withstand the test of time. There are two being released next Saturday. The first version is a 1997 from Inniskillin ($22.95) and was barrel aged. Unfortunately these flavours overwhelm the fruit which is now tiring!  The second, 1998 Viognier Domaine des Aspes is only $13.65 and has all the rounded but still fairly crisp, floral, warm peach and fresh apricot flavours you could wish for - a versatile, ready to drink, crowd-pleasing style.

Austria may not be at the top of the hit parade when it comes to wine, but I would be remiss if I didn’t reveal one of the best buy fruit-driven whites of the release - 1998 Moorhof Muskat Ottonel a steal at only $8.70. Originating from the Neusiedlersee Hugelland, this Muskat Ottonel grape has produced a wonderfully spicy, rounded, medium-light bodied, lychee-flavoured refresher that would be great for appetizers or with seafood or poultry.

Crisp refreshing Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favourite wines with seafood and appetizers. When it’s good, it’s usually great! The best of this release is 1998 Joseph Mellot’s Quincy ‘Le Rimonet’ ($14.95) a small appellation from the Loire region of France. It’s very crisp and dry with zesty, lemon-lime flavours and finishes with an herbal flourish This bargain-priced Sancerre look-alike is made entirely from mature 20- to 40-year-old Sauvignon Blanc.

A sleeper from the home of Armagnac in southwest France is 1998 Fontan’s Domaine Maubet at only $10.25.  It is light-bodied and very crisp (much like a Sauvignon Blanc) but is actually made from Colombard, Ugni Blanc and Gros Monseng. I particularly like its tangy, grassy, lemony-grapefruit flavours. Beware, it’s a wine for immediate drinking and should not be laid away.

There are 14 new Chardonnays to choose from. If you want something that’s big, bold and fairly beautiful for the money, go for the fruity, vanilla-directed 1997 Columbia Crest Chardonnay  ($18.95) from Washington State. At the opposite end of the spectrum is the well priced ($14.80), much more restrained, 1997 Collin-Bourisset Macon-Solutre with its mineral-directed, lemony, Anjou pear flavours. This rather gutsy Macon that will make a fine substitute for pricier Pouilly-Fuissé and is perfect for seafood. And if money’s no object, the rich, mouthfilling, well-made 1997 Chartron &Trébuchet Meursault at $49.95 is definitely for you.

For Riesling fans there’s a new entry from just across the border  - New York State Finger Lakes. The 1998 Hermann Wiemer Johannisberg Riesling at $15.90 delivers lots of bright, crisp, gently zesty, kiwi, lemons and apricot flavours! A versatile and easy to quaff style.

Moving on to the reds, dollar for dollar my favourite is the amazingly accessible, chestnut purée flavoured 1996 Elio Grasso ‘Vigna Martina’ Barbera d’Alba ($26.75). Fine, fruity and dry with wonderfully balanced violet and fresh plum purée flavours, this wine defines what a great Piemonte Barbera is all about. Unfortunately only 50 cases were available for shipping to the LCBO so you will have to scramble to get this one.

As for a best buy, you can’t miss with the1997Delheim Cabernet Sauvignon ($12.65). Its intense, gently smoky, baked plum and sweetish strawberry purée character offers lots of appeal – it’s fine to drink now or may be laid away for a few years to develop additional complexity.

Next week, further best buys from both upcoming March Vintages Releases.