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Baco est arrivée
Ontario reds lift-off for your Canada Day celebrations ©
© Michael
Vaughan 2001
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits
Columnist
Saturday,
June 30, 2001
With
Canada Day just around the corner, I am ready, willing and able to jump
aboard the Canadian wine bandwagon and sing praises to the efforts of our
local winemakers. In particular, I was looking forward to tasting two 1998
Pinot Noirs from British Columbia which were part of this month’s
Vintages “Salute to 1998 VQA Reds. Unfortunately, neither could be
recommended. Ditto for an appalling half bottle of 1997 Ontario
Cabernet/Merlot, which was closer to vinaigrette than wine! While 1997 was
an admitted challenge, one might ponder how some of these reds got through
the VQA tasting board.
If
I find any critic who agrees with the LCBO’s claim that these are our
“country’s best reds”, I’ll eat my hat. Of all these newly
released reds, the only Canadian to get a serious thumb’s up is Southbrook
Farms 1998 Pinot Noir Triomphe (currently
at Vintages at $19.85). Here’s a hefty, slightly earthy,
well-structured, award-winner with plummy, stewed cherry flavours and a
lingering leathery finish. Great for a juicy rib steak hot off the BBQ. (www.southbrook.com)
As
a wine chronicler, it’s essential to put a face behind a wine. Lab
tastings may be great for analysis but visiting the vineyard, fondling the
grapes and sticking one’s hands into the soil brings the wine all that
much closer. Watching how a winemaker assembles the wine and the
techniques used is critical to understanding what’s in the glass. Thus,
visiting wineries is a key element of wine appreciation.
Fortunately,
we have a number of excellent wineries close to home – perfect for a
summer weekend. Drop in at Henry of Pelham and you’ll meet Ron
Giesbrecht the resident winemaker here for the past eleven years.
There’s nothing pretentious or chi-chi, just a straightforward approach
which focuses on using lower-yielding grapes; premium properly seasoned
(air dried for 24-36 months) French and American oak barrels; high cost
small-batch hand-punched-down technology; etc. The results are terrific as
can be attested by their award-winning Henry
of Pelham 1998 Cabernet-Merlot ($29.95),
which is miraculously still available at the winery and a few Vintages
outlets (call the LCBO infoline first at 416-365-5900).
But
what takes the Canada Day sweep steak is the Henry
of Pelham Baco Noir – a deeply coloured, very spicy,
blueberry compote flavoured French hybrid that is the perfect foil for BBQ
ribs. It’s the kind of wine which deserves a banner exclaiming Baco
est arrivée!
Today
through July 2nd (10 - 6 daily), Henry of Pelham kicks off its
summer season with the launch of 2000
Baco Noir (their 1999
Baco Noir is still on the LCBO General List at $11.95) and 1999 Reserve Baco Noir ($21.95 at the
winery). These two dynamite reds are being served with strawberries and
pepper! The explosive berry and spice combo will create a dazzling set
fireworks in your mouth. There is a hitch, however, you’ll have to visit
the winery to take advantage of this complimentary weekend offer.
And
if you can’t make this date, mark you calendar for July 14 & 15
(11:30 - 5:00) which is the 4th Annual Shuck'em,
Suck'em, Eat'em Raw featuring Toronto’s own Oyster Boy
Restaurant along with Henry
of Pelham 2000 Sauvignon Blanc ($12.95
at the winery) and 2000
Sur Lie Chardonnay ($11.95 at the LCBO). The wines are free,
while the oysters run about one dollar each. For information call
905-684-8423. (www.henryofpelham.com)
For
those seeking out a great meal with their wines, there are a wide variety
of winery restaurants with new ones popping up every week. Of the three I
have visited, Vineland Estates is perhaps the most luxurious and smallest where
executive chef Mark Picone reins supreme. Check out the vibrant Vineland
Estates Rieslings with one of Mark’s seductive soups. (www.vineland.com)
Cave
Springs renowned On the Twenty is reliably delicious and busy. Their Rieslings, Rosé
and Gamay are well worth trying. Today and tomorrow, Caves Springs will be
featuring a tutored tasting of new releases and older Rieslings (dry and
off-dry) at 2 pm for $5 per person. If you’re too tired to drive home,
they also offer excellent accommodations. Call 905-562-3581 to reserve. (www.cavespringcellars.com)
Finally,
Hillebrand, which offers fine dining a la chef Tony De Luca in its
Vineyard Café also features one of the larger, more sophisticated guided
tours. Their premium Trius line is well worth checking out. Mark next
weekend July 7th and 8th on your calendar for their
Vineyard Jazz festival, which is now in its 12th year. Bring your
favourite chair or blanket and listen to the sounds from the lawn
overlooking the Stone Road Vineyard - tickets $25.00 per guest, per day
and may be booked at 1-800-582-8412. (www.hillebrand.com)
You can easily check out locations on the web or pick up a copy of the newly released 2001 Wineries of Ontario Guide, which is available for free at your local LCBO or from 1-888-594-6379.
Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada
2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net