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Saturday’s Vintage gems
Syrahs to make you hum with happiness
Michael
Vaughan
National Post • Saturday, March 31, 2001
There’s
no point beating around the bush, with the exception of an unsightly
Romanian Pinot Noir, next Saturday’s Vintages release has a number of
treasures that shouldn’t be missed. And it’s got everything to do with
a terrific grape that’s bound to bring a song to your lips – Syrah.
It
is amusing that some take umbrage with this wine’s beguiling character
and tonality. In fact, Syrah or Shiraz has so many voices that you’re
almost certain to find one you like. What we really have is a cast of
characters depending upon where they were born - everything from Jennifer
Lopez and Dame Edna to Paul Robson and Placido Domingo.
If
you happen to like lots of bright notes, then this little treasure from
Australia Evans
& Tate 1999 Margaret River Shiraz at $17.45 is for you. Its
somewhat cedary, cassis, ripe plum purée and black cherry flavours are
followed up by a fine, lingering finish. A mouthfiller with 14% alcohol,
it’s bound to fly off the shelves. And why not, it was awarded the
“Best Red” at 2000 International Wine Challenge, a huge wine
competition held in London last year.
If,
however, I had one red to buy, I would spend my last dollar on the
sumptuous Bodegas
Nieto Senetiner 1999 Syrah Valle de Vistalba - an absolute
steal at $11.35. At this price you normally don’t expect to get a lot of
structure and accessibility, but this Argentine red has both in spades.
The fact that it comes from 30-year-old vines is part of the explanation.
It’s gently cedary and dry but rounded with perfectly ripe cherry-plum
purée flavours with a fine lingering finish. A perfectly versatile,
ready-to-drink beauty, which will have you humming “que syrah” (www.
nietosenetiner.com).
If
you are looking for a slightly lighter, spicier, brighter rendition, try
its compatriot Bodegas
Santa Ana 1999 Shiraz Villa Nueva at $12.50. Its rounded,
creamy, blueberry compote flavours would go well with barbeque meats.
In
a totally different vein there’s an idiosyncratic Italian red that’s
bound will shake your shoes - Santa
Barbara 1996 Salice Salentino Rosso at $10.70. It’s made from
Negramaro grapes grown in the Salento peninsula, which forms the heel of
Italy’s boot. And it isn’t for everyone – the concentrated, extracty,
still somewhat austere, leathery-prune flavours call out for a robust
recipe. And while it’s definitely not for casual sipping – the
antithesis of what you would find in an American supermarket, its strong
distinctive flavours seduced me.
Continuing
on the “extracty” theme, there are the earthy-leathery flavoured reds
of the small Cahors region in southwest France. Made from Malbec (also
called “Auxerrois”) which is blended with Merlot (25%) and Tannat (5%)
Alain-Dominique Perrin 1997 Chateau Lagrezette
at $19.90 is still pretty much of “niche” effort. Its firm, chocolaty,
prunish flavours make it a perfect candidate for a rare roast of beef.
I
also have a word for the usually deprived fans of red Burgundy where the
term “extract” rarely is used. The word is “jump” as in jump on
the upcoming release of Domaine
Jacques Prieure 1998 Beaune Clos de la Féguine at $49.95,
which is showing very nicely. Owned by Antonin Rodet, its charming,
rounded, sandalwood and ripe cherry purée flavours are perfect to current
enjoyment – a Pinot Noir triumph.
Still
on Burgundy, those lucky enough to attend the recent Vintages 1999 Preview
Tasting discovered that while the reds were very nice (perhaps still a
little “dumb”), it was the whites that took the cake. From Chablis to
Montrachet, this appears to be one of the best vintages of the decade. Out
of dozens tasted, my favourite was the remarkable, rich, smoky,
hazelnut-lime purée driven Antonin
Rodet 1999 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru ($80). Only 3 cases were available and they
sold out immediately. Hopefully its agent Noble Estates will liberate more
for Ontario fans. Also tasted was Antonin
Rodet 1999 Macon Blanc, which at $13 has lots of fine fresh,
bright, ripe pear flavours. It proves that a good French Chardonnay
doesn’t have to be expensive to be good!
For
those who want immediate gratification, make sure you buy a bottle of Paul
Talmard 1999 Mâcon-Uchizy, which is sublime at only $13.55.
The lovely nose exudes lemon blossom and Anjou pear, which carry over
beautifully on the crisp unoaked palate. Pure perfection with seafood.
Next week I will give you the scoop on other white gems in this release.
Copyright
Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net