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Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist - Michael Vaughan

Much Ado About Something

(Publishing Date: Saturday October 21, 2000  - Toronto Section)  

Last week it was Gallo, this week it’s Mondavi. Without question Robert Mondavi has been a key force in focusing world attention on the wines of California. Today’s Vintages release of 16 wines from Mondavi and their world affiliates is a tribute to their accomplishments.

The best wine of the release is their classic Mondavi 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Priced at $149.75 today, it was only $99 when it first appeared last November in Vintages – cheap, perhaps too cheap, when compared to the US price. The wine has been blended with 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot and fermented with a combination of wild and cultivated yeast adding complexity. Instead of being filtered, it is racked off the sediment from barrel to barrel six times during the 22 months it spends in classic French oak.

Of all the Mondavi wines, this one has something I adore - “finesse.” It has a great nose leaning in the classic Margaux direction with gently earthy, lime leaf, tomato purée and roasted plum notes. On the palate it is well structured with slightly spicy, red pepper and plum purée flavours with subtle hints of vanilla, chocolate and herbs de Provence. It is much gentler and less smoky than last week’s recommended Gallo 1996 Sonoma Reserve highlight. Only 150 cases of 6 are available – making perfect for the oenophile who has everything.

Of the five whites, the highest score went to Mondavi 1998 Chardonnay Napa Valley Reserve Unfiltered at $54.95. Unfortunately, the first bottle sampled was corky - an affliction that can happen to even the world’s greatest wines. In fact, at least one bottle in 20 will have a cork related problem! Mondavi’s focus on high quality corks means that it less likely to happen with one of their wines. When it does, however, Vintages will cheerfully refund your money. Remember not to drink all the wine in the bottle because LCBO staff will not be impressed.

Getting back to the good bottle, it had a medium yellow colour – a tad deeper than expected.  The nose was rich, spicy and slightly cedary with baked lemon fruit. It is very crisp and dry on the palate with lemony, melon-pear flavours and a somewhat peppery, toasty, buttery finish. Aged 11 months “sur lie” (on the fine yeast deposits that settle out of the aging wine) in French oak, this one needs another 12 months to evolve. While it certainly is superior to some comparably priced white Burgundies that have recently surfaced in Vintages, I can’t say that it’s a must buy at the price.

What is a good buy is their barrel-fermented California blend Woodbridge 1997 Twin Oaks Chardonnay at $13.95. While it is suspiciously deep yellow in colour, the taste is still very much alive with fairly extracty, peppery, spicy, pear and lemon curd flavours followed up with some vanilla notes on the finish. It’s a style that would go well with poultry and white meats as opposed to seafood.

Of the other ten reds, my best buy recommendation goes to Mondavi’s partner in Chile – Caliterra 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva - great value at only $15.50. It has very nice density with rich, slightly smoky, ripe plum and cassis flavours plus some cedary green apple notes on the lingering finish. Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon and aged for 12 months in American oak, it would be great with grilled meats.

A red, which is at its absolute peak, is the smoky Mondavi 1998 Coastal Syrah at $24.95 from Monterey County. This classic Rhone varietal has been blended with 18% Merlot. It’s gamey, rounded, spicy, baked plum and prune flavours makes a perfect companion to duck or osso bucco.

From this French varietal, we venture forth to Italy for ‘La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi’1998 California Barbera at $29.95. The nose is very toasty with sweetish, coconut, cassis and ripe prune. It’s spicy, dry but rounded, blueberry pie, cassis and vanilla on the palate with a biscotti finish. 

The only disappointment at today’s release is the fortified 1994 Portacino. It’s made with all the “right” grapes (i.e. the original varieties used in Port production) but both bottles were hot, sweet and “cooked” on the palate. While this wine excelled at a tasting exactly one year ago, it seems to have fallen on hard times.