Sommelier Selects • A Biodynamic Weekend


June 18, 2009

Julian Hitner - Our Toronto-based Sommelier-at-Large
June 20th Vintages Release
and Update on Recent Madeira Tasting

Pouring over my notes for the June 20th release, I am delighted to report that there are plenty of great finds to get hold of this coming Saturday. While the theme of the release centres around Father’s Day and Argentina, during my time at the wine lab I found myself more impressed with the offerings from Bordeaux than anywhere else.
As wines from the extraordinary ’05 vintage keep coming into the LCBO system, it has become abundantly clear that one does not need to spend exorbitant amounts of money to enjoy a good number of supremely stellar wines from this already legendary year. Indeed, now that the ‘05 futures campaign has long come and gone, it is high time to take advantage of all these magnificent lesser-known names!

Here are several of my notes:

White Wines:

(1) Riesling, Chateau de Charmes, ‘Estate’, Niagara-on-the-Lake, 2005:
Starbright, pale yellow-lime. Beautifully lemony at the outset, with lovely scents of petrol, tropical pears, mild Asian spice, and a hint of dried apricots. Complex. Clean, with fine fruit, balanced acidity, and an enticing hint of lemony petrol on the finish. Gorgeous Niagara Riesling. Quite dry, yet invariably well structured. A great buy. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $16.95

(2) Riesling, Silver Wings Winemaking, ‘Marquee Artisan Wines’, Western Australia, 2007: Starbright, pale lime. Intense notes of lime (a little cordial), fresh lemon, a touch of white flowers, and a hint of green grapes. Clean, with crisp fruit (quite limy) and balanced, zesty acidity. Lasting finish. Bloody tasty, with great style and persistence, albeit lacking in regional specificity. Reasonably priced. Screwcap closure. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $19.95

(3) Verdelho, Poole’s Rock, ‘Cockfighter’s Ghost’, Hunter Valley, 2007:
Starbright, pale straw-lime. Restrained scents of minerally straw, a touch of lemony quince, white grapefruit, and a little leafiness. Clean, with zesty fruit, good acidity, and a lovely hint of lemon citrus on the finish. Stylish, original, and impressive. Aussie winemakers have certainly taken a liking to this Iberian-derived varietal. Hardly bargain priced, still worth trying. Drink now. 89 (or **) $18.95

Red Wines:

(1) Cabernet/Cariñena/Garnacha, Albet i Noya, ‘Lignum’, Penèdes, 2006:
Brilliant, dark ruby-red currant. Toasty cedar at the beginning, with dried cherries, red licorice, and a little spice. Clean, with lovely fruit, soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a very nice hint of red fruit on the finish. Quite fresh, with a wonderful style about it. From a new generation of Spanish viticulture. Great price. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $16.95

(2) Château Beaumont, Haut-Médoc, 2005:
Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby, with a touch of red currant. Toasty, with lovely scents of currants, plums, light mocha, spice, perhaps a little graphite, and a definitive trace of earth. Complex. Very clean, well-structured fruit, with approachable tannins, balanced acidity, and a really polished finish. Exceptional style, balance, and breed. The finest wine I have ever tasted from this chateau. Fantastic price. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) $25.00

(3) Château Duluc (Second Wine of Château Branaire-Ducru), St. Julien, 2005: Brilliant, dark-opaque ruby, with a touch of red currant. Decidedly complex aromas of moderate toast, currants, dark plums and earth, spice, and a hint of red licorice. Clean, firm fruit, with above-fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. More austere than anticipated, nonetheless beneficially lean, polished, and refined. A gorgeous wine, with serious aging potential. The finest ‘Duluc’ I have ever tasted (and the most expensive). Worth seeking out. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) $59.00

(4) Château Faizeau, ‘Vieilles Vignes’, Montagne-St. Emilion, 2005:
Bright, dark-opaque ruby, with a touch of red currant. Toasty, with lovely notes of slightly pasteled red-black currants, fresh earth, light vanilla, spice, plus a hint of cedar and red licorice. Very complex. Tight fruit at present, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Good length. One cannot help but remark upon the balance and breed of this wine. Superb price. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) $30.00

(5) Château Fougas Maldoror, Côtes de Bourg, 2005:
Bright, dark-opaque ruby, with a touch of red currant. Toasty mocha at the outset, then revealing alluring scents of earthy black cherries, red apples, vanilla, spice, and perhaps even a hint of crème brûlée. Very complex. Well-structured fruit, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely note of red currants on the finish. A stunning claret, with incredible style, breed, and overall depth. The finest wine from the Côtes de Bourg AOC I have ever tasted. Great price. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) $39.00

(6) Malbec, Kalken, ‘Ultra’, Mendoza, 2006:
Brilliant, opaque purple-ruby. Toasty at the outset, revealing dark cedar, fresh violet currants, black plums, lots of spice, vanilla, and mocha. Clean, with toasty fruit, soft tannins, milder acidity, and a delicious note of fresh oak (not overblown) on the finish. Fittingly appetizing, well structured, even a shade elegant. Very young. Nicely priced. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $19.95

Rosé Wine:

(1) Grenache, Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley, 2008:
Starbright, light salmon-raspberry. Intensely fragrant scents of schisty raspberries, cherries, ruby-red grapefruit, and dried plums. Enticing. Clean, with good fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of berried violets on the currants. Extremely tasty, stylish. One of the best ‘blushes’ on the market, though it seems to be getting more and more expensive. Drink now. 89 (or **) $15.95

Sparkling Wine:

(1) Cava, Castillo Perelada, ‘Reserva’, Brut NV:
Starbright, pale straw, with a touch of lime. Slightly biscuity, with crisp pears, dewy quince, plus a slight trace of dried apricot blossom and roasted nuts. Complex. Clean and crisp, with nice fruit, good acidity, and a polished finish. Definitely a superior Cava, with a very fine style about it. A worthy substitute for basic Champagne … seriously. Great price. Recommended. Drink now. 90 (or **) $17.95

Madeira Trade Tasting
at Jacobs Steak House - June 10

Hopelessly historical, Madeira shall be forever restricted in its popularity, the very finest vintages being relegated to (or horded by) a select few to the very lousiest being utilized as everyday cooking wine. And yet, somewhere in between there are some truly terrific Madeiras to be had. This was duly confirmed on Wednesday 10 June, when many of Toronto’s wine writers, agents, and better-connected enthusiasts were made privy to such examples at a luncheon and tasting held by the Portuguese Trade Commission at the Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse, located at 12 Brant Street in downtown Toronto.

     On the day of the event, one could easily foresee that most people (around fifty in number) were about to enjoy a splendid afternoon. An introductory ten year-old Sercial from Henriques & Henriques was the perfect reception wine, paired with various appetizers of unremarkable interpretation, followed by the first official pairing of the day: a ten year-old Verdelho from Blandy’s with beef consumé. A lovely wine, it did not pair at all well with what was a rather watery consumé. Not a good start, but it was what it was.

    Next, the main course: three types of beef paired with a magnificent fifteen year-old Verdelho from Henriques & Henriques. The first, USDA prime whole roasted tenderloin, was remarkably tender, and went perfectly with the overall smoothness and subtleness of the Madeira. The second, Oakleigh Ranch Wagyu striploin, was also excellent, though with its decidedly more grilled component it somewhat detracted from the general elegance of its vinous counterpart. The third beef on the other hand, Alberta Wagyu Bavette, also displaying more of a grilled element, seemed to pair quite wonderfully with the Verdelho, with its greater delicateness of flavour easily handing the overall profoundness of this brilliant fifteen year-old. With side offerings of sautéed mixed mushrooms, duck fat French fried potatoes (very tasty), baby carrots (not the best vegetable to go with Madeira), and potato gratin, this was indeed a lovely main course to go with such a superlative wine.

     Moving on to a selection of local cheeses (along with a few Portuguese ones), guests were poured two Madeiras to pair with them. Personally, I was more pleased with Justino’s ten year-old Bual than with Cossart Gordon’s five year-old Bual, as the latter was simply not in the same league as the former. In fact, the Cossart, with its burnt caramel and toffee flavours, seemed to pair more suitably with dessert, a beautifully made Devil’s food chocolate cake, accompanied by homemade ice cream, quite enticing. Officially, the wines poured with dessert was a 1996 Fine Rich Colheita from Justino’s, as well as a 1978 vintage Bual under the ‘Broadbent’ label. For my part, I found the 1976 Bual to be no match for the overall power for the chocolate cake; but the 1996 Colheita, quite rich in its own right, was indeed an excellent pairing.

     And so ended my lunch for the day. The day after, corned beef and rye, paired with a glass of tap water. Vintage: ten minutes’ prior.

Madeira Wine Reviews:

(1) Bual, Cossart Gordon, Five Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light-medium tawny. Extremely tangy at the outset, with moderate citrus fruit, lots of rancid butter (always positive), burnt caramel, light toffee, and spice. Clean, with good, dry fruit, balanced acidity, soft tannins, and a fine finish. Very tasty, almost plush. Admirable, richer style Madeira. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) Price Unknown (Imported by Symington Family Brands)

(2) Bual, Pereira D’Oliveira, Madeira, Harvest 1980: Brilliant, medium tawny-brown. Mature, near-dark aromas of dried wood, brown sugar, caramelized sea salt, smoke, spice, and a lovely hint of dried fruit. Complex. Clean, with reserved dried fruit, good acidity, soft tannins, concluding in an elegant, tangy-sweet finish. Fantastic Bual, with outstanding richness and overall complexity. The first Madeira I have ever tasted from this producer: a first-rate introduction. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) Price Unknown (Imported by Emilia Wighte, at 416.282.0836)

(3) Bual, Vinhos Justino Henriques, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Brilliant, light amber-tawny, with a touch of green. Intense tangy dried fruit, fragrant citrus, rancid butter, spice, and a hint of candied apple. Complex. Clean, with sweet, tangy fruit, good acidity, soft tannins, and a beautifully polished finish. Magnificent balance and structure, in a slightly more reserved style. A fortified to be proud of. Nicely priced. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) Approx. $40.00 (Imported by RKW Wine Imports)

(4) Bual, Vinhos Justino Henriques, ‘Broadbent’, Madeira, Portugal, Vintage 1978: Star-bright, light-medium amber-tawny. Revealing semi-closed notes of pureed apple cider, tangy fruit, light rancid butter, spice, and a hint of nutmeg. Clean, with tight, near-tangy fruit, good acidity, soft tannins, and a gorgeous hint of nervy red apples on the finish. Wonderful tightness, balance, and general reservedness, though perhaps it will reveal more decided pronouncements in the next century. Hold. 90 (or **+) Price Unknown (Imported by RKW Wine Imports)

(5) Colheita, Vinhos Justino Henriques, Madeira: Brilliant, light-medium amber. Intense dried wood, tangy citrus fruit and rancid butter, sugarcane, spice, and a delightful hint of toffee. Clean, fine fruit (lovely tanginess), with good acidity, soft tannins (derived from long wood aging), and a wonderfully generous, yet oddly delicate finish. Marvellous balance and richness. A real treat. Made mostly from Tinta Negra Mole, the undisputed workhorse grape of the island. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) Price Unknown (Imported by RKW Wine Imports)

(6) Malvasia, Vinhos Justino Henriques, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light orange-amber, with a touch of tawny. Intense tangy citrus orange, giving way to mature wood, moderate smoke, spice, and a subtle hint of toffee and caramel. Very complex. Clean, with lovely tangy fruit, great acidity (important in any fine Madeira), ending in a gorgeous tangy-citrus finish. Remarkable structure, longevity, and overall character. Exemplary for such a young Malvasia (or ‘Malmsey’). Excellent price. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) $35.95 (Imported by RKW Wine Imports, with less than twenty bottles left in the LCBO system, as of June 14, 2009)

(7) Sercial, Henriques & Henriques, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light amber-tawny. Enticingly wooden and sea salt-like at the outset, with rancid butter, moderate tanginess, smoke, spice, and a lovely hint of dried orange peel. Complex. Clean, with delicate, dry fruit (a little flor), great acidity, soft tannins, and a beautiful hint of aged oak on the finish (slightly tangy). Superbly balanced and delicate. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) Price Unknown (Imported by Cavima Enterprises)

(8) Sercial, Henriques & Henriques, Fifteen Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, pale-light orange. Intensely ‘inquisitive’ aromas of tangy citrus, dried wood, light orangey spice, caramel, and smoke. Complex. Clean, with delicate, dry fruit, tangy acidity, soft tannins, ending in a subtle, polished finish. Extremely delicate, overall. Exceptionally brilliant Sercial, rightfully (and arguably) the most intellectual of Madeira wines. Costly, but worth every penny. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) $58.00 (Currently Unavailable, Imported by Cavima Enterprises)

(9) Sercial, Vinhos Justino Henriques, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, pale orange. Complex, delicate scents of tangy citrus-orange, dry wood, light smoke, a little sea salt, and a hint of spice. Clean, with dry citrus fruit (very delicate), good acidity, soft tannins, and a polished finish. Superb Madeira, with exemplary balance, structure, and style. Very much worth buying. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) Approx. $40.00 (Imported by RKW Wine Imports)

(10) Verdelho, Blandy’s, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light-medium amber. Beginning with wooden tang, then revealing rancid butter (citrus-driven), a little cinnamon, plus a hint of smoke and maple-amber. Complex. Clean, with tangy dried fruit, great acidity, soft tannins, and a lovely hint of racy dried wood on the finish. Powerful, delicious Verdelho, with exemplary structure and polish. Somewhat richer than expected, nonetheless absolutely outstanding. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) Price Unknown (Imported by Symington Family Brands)

(11) Verdelho, Henriques & Henriques, Fifteen Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light orange-amber, with a touch of green. Incredible introductory notes of tangy dried fruit, switching to aged wood, light citrus-rancid butter, and a brilliant hint of tealeaves and smoke. Clean, with exceptionally tangy fruit, great acidity, and a gorgeous hint of citrus on the finish. Excellent length. Utterly magnificent Verdelho, with near-perfect power, and harmony, and refinement. Superbly priced. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 94 (or ***+) $58.00 (Imported by Cavima Enterprises)

(12) Verdelho, Vinhos Justino Henriques, Ten Year Old, Madeira: Starbright, light-medium orange-amber. Fragrant, tangy scents of citrus, rancid butter, dried wood, cooked apples, plus a lovely hint of smoke and spice. Very complex. Clean, with lovely (dried) fruit, good acidity, soft tannins, and a gorgeous hint of wooded citrus on the finish. Impeccable balance and overall character. Remarkably intricate, considering its young age (for a Madeira). Excellent price. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) Approx. $40.00 (Imported by RKW Wine Imports)

***********************************************************
Julian Hitner - Our Toronto-based Sommelier-at-Large
* June 2, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Updates on Recent Tastings
Plus Vintages June 5th Recommedations

Sipping from my glass of Fine Old Tokay (Rutherglen), I ponder some of the more noted tastings I have attended this past month. So many to choose from the life of a wine sommelier.

I think I shall begin with the German Wine Fair, held on May 5th at Roy Thomson Hall, and attended by a few hundred eager participants. Now a month later, I seem to recall having been somewhat disappointed at the limited number of truly fine German Rieslings on hand to taste. No doubt the recession kept many of the wine agents from showing off their more premium (and expensive) wares. All the same, there were still a few very beautiful wines that didn’t fail to catch my eye, particularly those of Weinguts Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken (Saarburg) and St. Urbans-Hof (Leiwen).

As most worldly wine enthusiasts are well aware, the beloved Riesling varietal tends to reach its greatest heights of wonderment in various parts of the Fatherland, most notably, many would argue, in the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. For years now, I have come to adore many of the finer wines along this winding tributary (and its sub-tributaries) of the Rhine. Such singular expression of the brilliant Riesling grape is virtually impossible to find anywhere else, from ‘icy’ green grapes and slate to delicate lemon and subtle hints of spice. Such are the types of wine I have decided to recommend from this tasting.

Also in May, the New Zealand Wine Fair took place on the 21st at the Design Exchange in downtown Toronto. One of my favourite events of the year (it always sells out), I am always amazed at the quickness of progress New Zealanders seem to display at tackling new grapes. The next big thing? Syrah. Granted, there was plenty of good Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir to go around, but one could not help but be amazed at the number of wineries trying their hands at this wonderful red grape, historically famous in the Northern Rhône and contemporaneously popularized throughout much of Australia. As one can tell by the Syrahs I have decided to list, the Kiwis’ efforts appear very promising.

Last, we come to the June 6th Vintages Release, and Toronto’s many wine enthusiasts will be delighted to know that there shall be some very lovely wines to be had this Saturday, from several beautiful white Burgundies to a couple of absolutely splendid Italian reds, along with a few other treats here and there. At this point however, I must apologize: there will be about a dozen different rosés in this release, and I have not made notes on any of them. Suffice it to say, there were just too many other wines this month to taste.

Here are several of my notes (most of which are recommended and not overpriced for the quality):

White Wines:

(1) Chardonnay, Pascal Bouchard, Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy, 2007: Starbright, pale lime. Beautiful, decidedly complex scents of pears, quince, cream crackers, pebbles, as well as a trace of honeysuckle and lemon blossom. Ironically, a tad closed (I think). Clean, with near-nervy fruit, good acidity, and a delightful finish. A superb Premier Cru, with great aging potential. Reasonably priced (considering the quality). Recommended. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) $36.95

(2) Chardonnay, Patrick Lesec, Meursault, 2005: Starbright, pale yellow-lime. Beginning toasty, then displaying beautiful scents of roasted hazelnuts, lemon-quince, and light tropical fruit; otherwise quite subtle, actually. Very complex. Clean with lovely fruit, balanced, acidity and a polished, stylish finish. Superb balance, with even a certain measure of breed. Rather pricey, yet well worth obtaining. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) $49.95

(3) Chardonnay, Michel Picard, ‘Château de Davenay’, Montagny Clos Chaudron Premier Cru, 2006: Starbright, pale lime (with a touch of yellow). Beginning with slight dewy notes, then revealing light hazelnuts, toasted quince, and light stoniness. Clean, with tight fruit, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Quite young and reserved; nonetheless very fine, overall. Definitely worth seeking out. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $26.95

(4) Chenin Banc, Lacheteau, ‘Les Loges’, Vouvray, 2007: Starbright, pale lime (with the slightest touch of yellow). Beginning with lovely, subtle notes of dewy honeysuckle, sweet pears, straw, and a hint of lemon blossom. Clean, with lovely fruit (a tad sweet), balanced acidity, and a beautiful hint of honeydew on the finish. Absolutely delicious, charming; terrific balance. Excellent price. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $14.95

(5) Riesling Auslese, Weingut St. Urbans-Hof, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Mosel, 2007: Starbright, pale lime. Intense creamy honeysuckle, lemon-quince, a little slate, and the tiniest hint of tropical fruit. Complex. Clean, with beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, and a refined hint of stony peaches on the finish. Fantastic depth and complexity, with a decidedly youthful (yet exceedingly ageworthy) disposition. From one of the most prestigious vineyards in the Mosel winegrowing region. Probably expensive, nevertheless worth every penny. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) Price unavailable (Sold through Rogers & Company)

(6) Riesling Auslese (Goldkapsel), Weingut Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch, Saar, 2005: Starbright, pale lime. Beginning with alluring scents of chalky lime, then displaying lemon-quince, along with a hint of dried apricots and white flowers. Complex, yet very tightly knit at the moment. Clean, sensational fruit, with balanced, nervy acidity, and a brilliant hint of lemony sweetness on the finish. Simply magnificent, with decades of (potential) aging ahead of it: one should expect nothing less from such a superb vintage and excellent winery. Undoubtedly costly. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) Price unavailable (Sold through HHD Imports)

(7) Riesling Spätlese, Weingut Zilliken, Saarburger Rausch, Saar, 2007: Starbright, pale straw-lime. Intense scents of sweet honeysuckle, a touch of lemon-lime, pears, and a little chalkiness. Very complex. Clean, beautiful fruit, balanced acidity, and a remarkable finish. Exceptionally well structured, elegant, and long lasting. From one of the finest wineries of the Saar winegrowing region (second only to Egon Müller). Drink now or hold. 90 (or **+) Price unavailable (Sold through HHD Imports)

(8) Sauvignon Blanc, Astrolabe, Awatere Valley (Marlborough), 2008: Starbright, pale straw-lime. A little peachy at the outset, then revealing delightful scents of dewy gooseberries, pebbles, and cat’s pee – all textbook traits of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Clean, with zesty fruit (gooseberries), great acidity, and a lovely finish. Extremely pretty, with a terrifically refreshing attitude. Not cheap, mind you, but definitely worth trying. Drink now. 89 (or **) $23.90 (Sold through Rogers & Company Wines)

Red Wines:

(1) Cabernet Sauvignon, Fincas Patagonicas/Tapiz, ‘Zolo Reserve’, Mendoza, 2005: Bright, opaque ruby-red currant. Delightful toasty notes, with dark purple-violets, a touch of beef, vanilla, and spice. Fine fruit, with good tannic structure, mild acidity, and a well-balanced finish. Delicious, with great personality and style. Argentinean Cabernet seems to get better with each passing vintage. Very sensibly priced. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $18.95

(2) Dolcetto, Bricco Rosso, Dolcetto di Dogliani DOCG, 2006: Bright, dark-opaque purple-ruby. Fragrant plums, black cherries, light toast, perhaps a few currants, and a trace of undergrowth. ‘Dense’ nose. Firm fruit and tannins (polished), with balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of dark plums on the finish. Beautifully structured. From the only exclusively-Dolcetto DOCG in Piedmont (or Italy). Superb price. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $18.95

(3) Gaglioppo, Santa Venere, Cirò Rosso Classico DOC, 2007: Bright, medium-dark red currant-garnet. Toasty, with stewed cherries and plums, sandalwood, a little spice, plus a hint of dried red licorice and sun dried tomatoes. Complex. Lovely red fruit on the palate, with milder acidity, approachable tannins, and a nice finish. Unique, appetizing stuff. From the local Gaglioppo grape, a varietal with serious potential. Organic. Great price. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $19.95

(4) Pinot Noir, Mount Riley, Marlborough, 2008: Starbright, medium ruby. Inviting aromas of dark raspberries, cherries, red plums, rhubarb, red licorice, and a touch of spice. Clean, with delicious fruit, soft tannins, balanced acidity, and a lovely hint of fresh raspberries on the finish. Superb structure and balance, yet perhaps not as ultra-polished as the ’07. Crafted by some of the nicest persons in Marlborough. Worth buying. Drink now. 89 (or **) $22.95 (Sold through Diamond Wines Estates & Spirits)

(5) Syrah, Elephant Hill, ‘Reserve’, Hawke’s Bay, 2007: Brilliant, opaque purple (with a touch of ruby). Starting off intensely gamey and peppery, then accompanied by lovely notes of black fruit, leather, and spice. Complex. Clean, with fine fruit, slightly softer tannins, and a lovely finish. Beautiful Syrah, with impressive structure and overall substance. One cannot help thinking how much better future vintages ought to be when the vines reach full maturity. Acceptably priced. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $34.95 (Sold through HHD Imports)

(6) Syrah, Villa Maria, ‘Cellar Selection’, Hawke’s Bay, 2007: Bright, opaque purple-ruby. Slightly toasty (at the outset), with dark blackberries, faintly brambling currants, baked plums, a little pepper, and a touch of black earth. Clean, with juicier fruit, soft tannins, and a very tasty finish. More forward than many other premium Syrahs I have tasted from Hawke’s Bay, yet all the parts seem to fit with unmistakable ease. Truly tasty, however uncomfortably priced. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $37.95 (Sold through Peter Mielzynski Agencies)

(7) Tardieu-Laurent (Vieilles Vignes), Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2005: Brilliant, dark red currant-garnet. Alluring, complex scents of toast (at the outset), dark berry-currants, undergrowth, a trace of leather, spice, vanilla, some stewed plums, and a few red apples. Approachable (yet still tight), with fine fruit, good acidity, fine tannins, and a lovely hint of red currants on the finish. A brilliant Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with remarkable structure and style, not to mention cellaring potential. Expensive, but well worth obtaining. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 92 (or ***) $84.95

(8) Villa Mangiacane, Chianti Classico, 2006: Brilliant, dark red currant. Toasted red currants and cherries (inviting), a little smoky earth, spice, as well as the slightest trace of sun dried tomatoes. Complex. Tight at present, yet boasting bright fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Probably shutting down (I think), yet superbly balanced. Sincerely impressive. From the magnificent ’06 vintage. Recommended. Excellent price. 90 (or **+) $29.95

Sparkling Wine:

(1) Mauzac/Chardonnay/Chenin Blanc (Sparkling), Antech, ‘Grand Réserve’, Blanquette de Limoux, Brut Vintage 2005: Starbright, pale straw (with a touch of lime). Toasty and biscuity (at the outset), with temperate fruit, white flowers, lemon citrus, a touch of game, as well as a slight nuttiness. Complex. Clean and crisp, with polished fruit, balanced acidity, and a lovely finish. Never heard of Limoux? Try it. Superb price. Recommended. Drink now or hold. 89 (or **) $16.95

Julian Hitner - Our Toronto-based Sommelier-at-Large
* May 19, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Updates on Recent Tastings (Austria & Argentina)
Plus Vintages May 23rd Recommedations

As one of Toronto’s committed sommeliers, there are very few days of the (working) year when I do not taste wine. From prodigious compilations at the lab to innumberable private events across the city, one might be startled to discover how little wine I actually drink in the course of an average business day. Not that I mind, of course. After all, is it not a worthy sacrifice to make, for the good of all wine enthusiasts in our pathetic province? Some people fight fires, others crime, while I tackle the hundreds (if not thousands) of different wines that come my way, recommending a few and – like a clever commentator – deservedly dismissing most.
In the past month, I have been characteristically privileged to taste an exciting array of different wines from around the globe, from urban-cool Austrian Grüner Veltliners to up-and-coming Malbecs of Argentinean ‘extraction’ (how I admire double meanings). This year, the 2009 Austrian Wine Fair (unfortunately for trade people only) was held at the Rosehill Lounge on the afternoon of April 22nd. In all, I was very pleased with many of the wines on offer, particularly the Grüner Veltliners derived from older vines (‘Alte Reben’). I also came across a few reds, which I could not help but admire. While it has been said that many Austrian red wines – such as those derived from Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and Saint-Laurent – tend to be overrated and overpriced, I must say that I was rather impressed by some of the wines I happened to taste. Granted, they were not cheap, but they were certainly memorable.

In a distinctly disparate part of the winegrowing world, on the evening of May 4th, I took part in an informative Argentinean seminar at the Park Hyatt Hotel. Featuring thirteen wines in total (with at least two corked), there were only one or two wines that seriously stood out; and both of them were Malbecs. This is not, however literarily, to suggest that this had been a wholly disappointing tasting. Not only was the presenter superb, the evening was concluded by a wonderful set of tangos, courtesy of a very attractive (and unmistakably accomplished) couple. It’s just that too many of the wines were either overpriced, prematurely aged, or even possibly corked. I regret that not even a hundred tango dances could atone for such easily attenuated shortcomings.

Finally, we come to the Vintages May 23rd Release, featuring the wines of New Zealand and Bordeaux. Beyond doubt, this is one of the largest releases since last Christmas; and there are many wines worth seeking out (albeit some more than others, as is typical of every Vintages release). When I tasted these wines in the lab about three weeks ago – and many of them again just a few days before the release – it was the ’05 Bordeaux wines that plainly stood out: qualitatively brilliant, yet in most cases sorely overpriced. As for the rest, each country would seem to have something to offer, from a superb Canadian sparkler (and Pinot Gris) to a damn tasty Aussie Shiraz. Indeed, It ought to prove a busy Saturday at Summerhill.

Here are several of my notes (all recommended and not overpriced for the quality):

White Wines:

(1) Carlo Pellegrino, ‘Duca di Castelmonte Tripudium’ (Bianco), IGT Sicilia, 2007: Starbright, pale yellow-lime. Intense, fascinating scents of funky dewy-grass (at the outset), accompanied by toasted honey, nutted lemon, dried apricots, and orange marmalade. Clean, firm fruit. Intriguing lamby-herbs and dewy-pears on the finish. Unique and well made. A blend of Grillo, Chardonnay, and Muscat of Alexandria. Though Sicilian reds make most of the headlines, their whites are also proving equally respectable. A truly viable purchase. Drink now. 89 $18.95

(2) Chardonnay, Domaine Michel-Andreotti, Montagny Premier Cru, 2006:
Starbright, pale yellow-straw (gorgeous colour). Intensely fragrant notes of sweet butterscotch, light tropical fruit and hazelnuts, as well as a hint of dewy flowers. Complex. Clean, yet perhaps a tad overly tight (even for a Montagny), which may only round out once the wine is past its prime. A few green apple peels on the finish. Nonetheless, a great drop. Excellent price. Drink now or hold. 89 $23.95

(3) Chardonnay, Mulderbosch, Stellenbosch, 2005:
Starbright, pale straw-lime. Toasty creamed corn, with a hint of fresh asparagus (at the outset), shortly thereafter accompanied by fresh butter, citrus-tropical fruit, and light butterscotch. Crisp, delightful fruit, with good acidity. Balanced finish. Very well structured. Still rather young, in my opinion. Rationally priced. Drink now or hold. 89 $20.95

(4) Grüner Veltliner, Aichinger, ‘Alte Reben’ (‘Old Vines’), Kamptal, 2006:
Starbright, pale yellow-straw. Intense creamy green apples, pears, freshly split peas, beach pebbles, and a touch of melon dew. Complex. Clean, with soft fruit, good acidity, and a lingering finish. Extremely vibrant, superb. Definitely one of the finer Grüners to come out of the Kamptal winegrowing region; and it only sells for €10.00 at the cellar door. Drink now or hold. 90 (NOT FROM THE MAY 23rd RELEASE)

(5) Grüner Veltliner, Bründlmayer, ‘Alte Reben’ (‘Old Vines’), Kamptal, 2006: Starbright, pale yellow-straw. Intense lemony lentils, fresh pears, stony beach pebbles, and a trace of white pepper. Complex. Clean, with very fine fruit, good acidity, and a lovely finish. Beautiful overall character, even at 14% alcohol. As expected, one pays extra for ‘Alte Reben,’ but it certainly seems worth it. Drink now. 89 (NOT FROM THE MAY 23rd RELEASE)

(7) Pinot Gris (Organic), Malivoire, Niagara Escarpment, 2008:
Starbright, very pale straw. Intense honeydew and cream (at the outset), closely followed by light lemon-citrus and beach pebbles, as well as (oddly) a hint of peanut brittle. Crisp, with lively citrus notes and fresh strawy-dew on the palate and finish. Very well done. Malivoire seems to be going places. Appropriately priced. Drink now. 89 $18.95

(8) Sauvignon Blanc, Spy Valley, Marlborough, 2008:
Starbright, pale straw. Intense gooseberries, ‘racy’ grass, lemon-quince, and perhaps a touch of dried apricots and melon dew. Very crisp, with a balanced, zesty finish. Near-textbook Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Not as dazzling as the superlative ’07, nonetheless damn tasty, with a decent price tag to match. Though a young winery, I have always been pleased with the efforts of Spy Valley. Drink now. 89 $14.95

Red Wines:

(1) Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Zweigelt, Aichinger, Kamptal, 2007:
Brilliant, medium ruby-red currant. Intense peppered cherry-currants, earthy red licorice, a touch of leather, and a hint of vanilla and spice. Clean, with near-firm fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a polished finish. Well styled. Who would have thought Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot could make good wine out of cool-climate Kamptal? Costs only €8.00 at the cellar door. Drink now or hold. 89 (NOT FROM THE MAY 23rd RELEASE)

(2) Château l’Argenteyre, Médoc (Cru Bourgeois), 2005:
Bright, dark purple-red currant. Moderated scents of earthy-currants, a hint of dark chocolate, plums, as well as a touch of leafy violets and game. Rather complex. Very tight at the moment, with firm tannins, and a reserved finish. Unshakable elegance and genuine refinement. This is what the illustrious ’05 vintage is all about. Outstanding price. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 90 $24.95

(3) Château Lafont-Rochet, St-Estèphe, 2005:
Brilliant, dark purple-red currant (beautiful colour). Toasty (at the outset), with elegant, earthy currants, a hint of mocha, in addition to the slightest trace of meat, plums, and cloves. Very complex. Firm fruit, fairly firm tannins, ending off in a very tight finish. Unquestionable breed and boldness, with an underlying trace of St. Estèphe austerity. Tasted three times over the past fourteen months. A wine to keep for several decades. Fairly priced, considering its overall stupendous-ness. Highly recommended. Hold. 94 $69.00

(4) Domaine Grand Veneur, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2006:
Starbright, dark-opaque purple (with a hint of red currant). Intensely inviting scents of forested-brambling fruit, dark berries, leather, spice, suitably accompanied by a trace of black licorice and smoke. Very complex. Clean, elegant dark fruit, fine tannins, and a stylish finish (great length). Extremely well balanced, with genuine class and long-term ageability. From a domain with an excellent track record in recent years. Excellently priced, considering the quality. Highly recommended. Drink now or hold. 92 $47.95

(5) Malbec, Bodegas Universo Austral/V.C. Family, ‘Chalten Grand Riserva’, Neuquén, Patagonia, 2007: Brilliant, opaque purple. Toasty, with dark-black fruit, mocha, and vanilla extract. Soft, well-styled fruit, fine tannins, and a good finish. An unquestionably tasty wine, though closing up (I think), so drink quickly. Without doubt, Malbec has found a terrific home in this large South American nation. Superbly priced. Recommended. Drink now. 89 $18.95

(6) Malbec, Trivento Bodegas Y Viñedos, ‘Golden Reserve’, Mendoza, 2006:
Brilliant, dark-opaque purple-ruby. Toasty, with red-plumy currants, a touch of dark violets, spice, and black earth. Complex. Clean, well-structured fruit, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and lovely toasty fruit on the finish. Great length. Firm and well fashioned. Reasonably priced. Drink now or hold. 89 $24.95 (NOT FROM THE MAY 23rd RELEASE)

(7) Malbec/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon, Finca Flichman, ‘Paisaje Tupungato’, Tupungato, 2006: Brilliant, dark ruby. Somewhat closed at present, nonetheless revealing lovely notes of red currants, toast, a little spice, and a touch of vanilla. Clean, with well-structured fruit, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a stylish finish. Truly tasty and well crafted. Impeccably priced. Drink now or hold. 89 $18.50 (NOT FROM THE MAY 23rd RELEASE)

(8) Shiraz, Two Hands, ‘Gnarly Dudes’, Barossa Valley, 2007:
Bright, dark-opaque purple. Intense purple fruit (a tad sweet), unmistakable eucalyptus, plums (perhaps a bit stewed), mocha, vanilla, and spice. Clean, with supple fruit (lots of purple-blueberries) and tannins; and a beautiful, lengthy finish. An exceedingly tasty Shiraz from Two Hands, though clearly not in league with their ‘Garden Series’ wines. Priced to my satisfaction. Drink now or hold. 89 $27.95

Rosé Wine:

(1) Syrah (Rosé), Montes, ‘Cherub’, Colchagua Valley, 2008:
Starbright, pale-medium strawberry. Toasty sawdust (at the outset), with watermelon-citrus, peppered currants (with even a hint of cassis), candied apples, and leafy strawberries. Decidedly fruity, with good acid, and delicate sweet-berries on the finish. An absolute charmer; exceptional job. Indeed, there is more to New World rosé than White Zinfandel. Reasonably priced. Drink now. 89 $16.95

Sparkling Wine:

(1) Henry of Pelham (Sparkling), ‘Cuvée Catherine’, Niagara Peninsula, Brut NV: Starbright, pale straw. Starting off toasty, with crisp Bartlett pears, orange-lemon citrus peel, quince, and a hint of vanilla. Lovely nose. Clean, crisp fruit, with good acidity, and green apples on the finish. A terrific sparkling wine; tight, firm, and elegant. Perhaps a (somewhat) lighter style than previous years; nonetheless, an incredible value. Recommended. Drink now. 90 $29.95

* May 1, 2009 Sommelier Selects Report
Bouchard Pere & Fils 2007 Burgundy

One of the more remarkable tastings I have enjoyed the privilege of attending, a spectacular line-up of ’07 vintage white and red Burgundies from Bouchard Père & Fils, as well as a good number of Chablis from William Fèvre (owned by the former, also ’07 vintage), was presented by Woodman Wines and Spirits on a showery-turned-sunny afternoon of 28 April (11:00 AM to 4:00 PM), at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club in downtown Toronto. On the first floor, in what I suppose was the main dining room of the association (quite fancy), attendees – about forty or fifty in number – were given the rare opportunity to sample the finer wines of one of Burgundy’s more esteemed négociant domains, with Luc Bouchard himself on hand to answer any questions that came up during the course of the afternoon.

For my part, I was a great deal more impressed with the white wines than with the reds, a sentiment I found to be echoed by many of my more conscientious peers. In short, many of the reds, particularly the ‘entry range’ wines and village wines (plus a few Premier Crus) from both the Côte du Beaune and the Côte de Nuits, were explicitly uninspired and overly straightforward, not to mention unashamedly expensive. Granted, there were still a few standout Premier Crus; but it was really only with the Grand Crus that one began to feel truly enraptured with the ever-sensual Pinot Noir grape varietal.

On the other hand, many of the whites to be tasted were truly extraordinary, from exemplary all-round Chablis to mesmerizing, age-defiant Chevalier-Montrachet. Though many of these wines were just as expensive as the reds (if not more so), one could not help but to feel that, on a qualitative scale, they represented conspicuously better value for money.
Here are a few of my notes:

White Wines:

Bouchard Père & Fils, 2007 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru AOC
Starbright, pale lime (with a touch of straw). Gorgeous scents of vanilla-honeydew, Bartlett pears, quince, graphite, and a touch of butterscotch. Very complex, fragrant. Clean, with comprehensive fruit (elegant) and good acidity. Beautiful, polished finish. A lovely trace of residual sweetness (as most fine white Burgundy ought to have). Brilliant Corton-Charlemagne – anything less from this négociant would be intolerable. A wine priced for rich persons, plain and simple. Drink now or hold. 9.25/10 or 94 (or ***+) $204.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Meursault Perrières Premier Cru AOC
Starbright, pale lime (with a touch of straw). Intrinsically complex: toasty-quince (at the outset), Bosc pears and a hint of tropical fruit, a trace of nuts, citrus notes, and a touch of beach pebbles. Clean, with beautifully polished fruit, good acid, and an impeccable finish. Extremely young, with years of potential aging ahead of it. From one of the most prestigious Premier Cru vineyards of Meursault. Very expensive. Drink now or hold. 8.75/10 or 90 (or ***) $117.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru AOC
Starbright, pale lime. Extremely complex, tight aromas. Beginning with near-tropical quince, then displaying notes of butterscotch, a touch of vanilla, toast, and pebbles. Not much fruit as of yet (unsurprisingly); very young. Clean, with tight fruit, good acidity, and a sensational finish. Balanced and exceptionally well-rounded, with unmistakable breed and finesse. A wine for laying down at least ten years. Priced well beyond mortal affordability (for most people). Hold. 8.75/10 or 90 (or ***) $402.00

William Fèvre 2007 Chablis AOC
Starbright, pale straw-lime. ‘Nervy’ Bosc pears, pebbles, a little lemon-citrus, and a touch of straw. Clean, with good fruit (a little apricot), balanced acidity, and a lovely finish. Always a great wine, in my opinion; embodying the very essence of what non-cru Chablis is all about to its many devotees. Somewhat overpriced, I’m afraid. Drink now. 8.25/10 or 88 (or **) $32.00

William Fèvre 2007 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru AOC
Starbright, pale lime. Delightful, subtle notes of honeyed quince, fresh pears, pebbles, a touch of white pepper, and a trace of toast (lees-influenced). Clean, with vibrant fruit, balanced acidity, and an enduring finish. Perhaps a shade less ‘nervy’ than previous vintages, nonetheless unquestionably stylish and refined. Superb aging potential. One of the most expensive Grand Cru Chablis I have yet to come across – I shall leave it to my fellow wine enthusiasts to decide if the wine merits the price. Drink now or hold. 8.75/10 or 90 (or **+/***) $100.00

William Fèvre 2007 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos:
Starbright, pale lime. Beautiful scents of citrus-pears, quince, a touch of lemon, honeydew; as well as (perhaps) a hint of toast, pebbles, and vanilla. Very complex. Clean, tight fruit, balanced acidity, with a really nervy, near-sexy finish. Just gorgeous, though (at least debatably) not as vivid as past vintages. From one of the most respected producers of Chablis. And yet, more expensive than I have ever encountered (for a Grand Cru Chablis). Drink now or hold. 9.0/10 or 92 (or ***/***+) $214.00

William Fèvre 2007 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses:
: Starbright, pale lime. Delightful, subtle notes of honeyed quince, fresh pears, pebbles, a touch of white pepper, and a trace of toast (lees-influenced). Clean, with vibrant fruit, balanced acidity, and an enduring finish. Perhaps a shade less ‘nervy’ than previous vintages, nonetheless unquestionably stylish and refined. Superb aging potential. One of the most expensive Grand Cru Chablis I have yet to come across – I shall leave it to my fellow wine enthusiasts to decide if the wine merits the price. Drink now or hold. 9.0/10 or 92 (or ***/***+) $100.00

Red Wines:

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Beaune Marconnets Premier Cru AOC
Brilliant, medium ruby-red currant. ‘Dusty’ berries, with red licorice, and a touch of red currants. Nice fruit, with fine tannins and good acidity (though a bit high). A hint of red currants on the finish. A very decent, solid red Beaune, but hardly worthy of ‘Premier Cru’ status; and thus repulsively overpriced. Drink now or hold. 8/10 or 87 (or *+/**) $61.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Le Corton Grand Cru AOC
Starbright, medium ruby-red currant. Toasty, with red violets and currants, red licorice (a bit earthy), a little mocha, and a touch of undergrowth. Very complex. Young, beautiful fruit, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a long finish. Excellent structure. Not as voluptuous as its neighbours to the northeast; nonetheless an extremely attractive red Corton, boasting style, body, and breed. A connoisseur’s red Burgundy, with long-term ageability. Very expensive. Drink now or hold. 8.75/10 or 92 (or ***) $128.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Chambertin-Clos-De-Béze Grand Cru AOC
Brilliant, medium-dark ruby-red currant. Somewhat reserved at present (which is to be expected): toasty, with berries, a touch of earth, a hint of mocha, and red licorice. Extremely subtle and complex. Very young, with elegant fruit, balanced acidity, and fine tannins. Reserved, well-structured finish. A brilliant wine, to say the least, but very much in an infantile stage of development; to lay down. Priced to such effect that only rich persons can afford it – wholly unfair. Hold. 8.75/10 or 92 (or ***) $312.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin AOC, Burgundy
Brilliant, ruby-red currant. Lightly toasted, with earthy-cherries, red licorice, and a touch of leather. Somewhat closed, I think. Clean, with tight fruit, fine tannins, and a reserved finish. Ultimately, a very solid, polished ‘village wine.’ And yet, something does seem missing from making this a truly superb ‘entry range’ Gevrey-Chambertin. Drink now or hold.
8.25/10 or 92 (or **) $62.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Nuits-St-Georges Les Cailles Premier Cru AOC
Brilliant, medium ruby (with a touch of red currant). Toasty, with dark berries, mocha-violets, fresh loam, a touch of crème brûlée, vanilla, and spice. Beautifully complex. Lovely, generous fruit, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a dazzling finish (a touch of strawberries). Wonderful expression. An exceptional Premier Cru, one that is unmistakably true to its origin. Very expensive – wouldn’t be top Nuits-St-Georges if it was cheap. Drink now or hold. 8.75/10 or 92 (or ***) $128.00

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 ‘Ancíenne Cuvée Carnot’, Volnay Caillerets Premier Cru: Brilliant, medium ruby-red currant. Fragrant, toasty notes, with fresh violets, light rhubarb, earth, red licorice, and a touch of spice. Clean, high-quality fruit, with fine tannins, balanced acidity, and a well-structured finish. Very young, finely crafted, and refined. For aging. High-priced, perhaps exaggeratedly so. Drink now or hold. 8.5/10 or 90 (or **+)

Bouchard Père & Fils 2007 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots Premier Cru:
Brilliant, medium ruby-red currant. Toasty, with cherry-mocha, fresh berries, red licorice, crème brûlée, spice, and a touch of violets. Lovely fruit (young), with balanced acidity, fine tannins, and a polished finish. Unmistakably superb, with genuine breadth, overall refinement. Exceedingly expensive – sometimes I forget how much fine Burgundy actually costs. 8.5/10 or 90 (or **+)