Blues on Bellair worth the detour, but may play hit or miss

Review by Michael Vaughan
(September 3 , 1999)

It's the last August Friday of the millennium. I've had a killer two weeks: a berserk computer, a dysfunctional modem and Toronto air: hot, heavy and foul. The water's worse, though: so loaded with algae byproducts, it's almost a meal in every glass. I yearn for Toronto of yesteryear: clean air and water you could actually drink without wincing.

Then I hear of an ambitious new hot spot in Yorkville, serving up great music of yesteryear along with innovative grub. A mirage? An escape to the past? The idea of a '60s music-driven restaurant cum bar is the brainchild of owner/manager Diane Jermyn, whose wonderfully friendly manner makes you feel like you're dining in her home.

Husband Peter Jermyn commands the keyboard in the small band area, featuring the jazz and rhythm and blues of legendary Yorkville band Luke and the Apostles. (On this Friday, Luke is absent, so the band is renamed AWOL, Apostles Without Luke.) In fact, it seems that a variety of musicians appear for the Thursday through Saturday sessions. Unfortunately, on this night, more than Luke was missing, and we ended up throwing in the towel before the first set.

Down eight steps (below a soon-to-be-opened chichi cosmetics shop) to a few sheltered open-air patio tables; three steps lower to a splashy bar, tiny kitchen, and 10 tables set up within arm's reach of the band's organ. Alas, closer to the band than to the service.

Although amiable, the youthful and willing waiter was overwhelmed and disorganized. In short, inadequate. I would have gladly sacrificed the fine white tablecloth for a pepper mill; one couple waited five minutes before peppering their salads. The place was hopping, but service was slow with a capital S. Luckily, we were pacified by some truly delicious sweet potato bread served with two spreads.

Executive chef Michael Pataran's expansive, spice-driven, ever-changing, eclectic menu sounds exciting, even if you don't know what "airline" chicken breast (skin on with wing joint attached), "Spatchcocked" (butterflied with the wishbone removed) twice-cooked squab, or "Patagonian toothfish" (Chilean sea bass) is. His past oeuvres at Sequoia Grove are reflected in the South American/Tex-Mex-inspired cuisine. (He's also worked at Monsoon, and as the next-door neighbour of band member Luke, he was a natural choice.)

There are seven appetizers and tantalizers, including an intriguing roasted corn and curried littleneck clam chowder with blue corn tortilla raft, corn sprouts and poblano pepper cream ($7.95, unavailable the night we visit). Under greens, sandwiches and vegetables, we select two of six items (both $8.95): Creole crusted sea scallops with shaved jicama, roast fennel and curly endive in a mango-lime vinaigrette; and a cashew-crusted St. Andre cheese crouton with arugula and escarole in a raspberry-poppyseed vinaigrette. Three twoony-sized 1/2-inch thick sea scallops were deliciously tender and crunchy with extremely spicy Creole spicing. Reminiscent of better New Orleans cooking, this is a hit with my taste buds. The tasty julienne of fresh white crunchy jicama (a brown coloured Southern tuber with fresh apple-pear-water chestnut flavours) sits atop the crisp greens. Another hands-down winner is the other combination of warm flavourful cheese: a fruit-driven vinaigrette, bitter escarole and nutty arugula. (Both dishes were up to the bright, somewhat spicy, dry, crisp, faintly smoky, raspberry-black currant flavours of the 1998 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir, $32.)

Moving on to the nine "land, air and sea" dishes, which begin with pasta at $17.95, I opt for a kiwi and port marinated 12 oz. grain-fed frenched veal chop with a blackberry-mulato chile relish, Peruvian causa and roasted tomatillos ($30.95). This perfectly cooked, remarkably flavorful chop was the evening's unanimous winner: a fine pink colour, lovely texture, with a gentle crunch to the exterior. Unfortunately, the accompanying vegetables get a unanimous thumbs down. The slab of Peruvian causa, a traditional pureed potato-based terrine, reminded me of firm, day-old-plus mashed potatoes. I could only get myself to nibble on the three distinctive, acidic, bitter, almost vinegary roasted tomatillos with their burnt husks flung upward. These small Mexican tomatoes are actually berries and, for my palate, are better served raw.

A half rack ($18.95) of country-style baby back ribs with homemade barbecue sauce and fresh-cut sweet potato fries elicits praise from my dining companion. But this large half portion (a full rack is $25.95) didn't quite meet my expectations. It wasn't that the meat wasn't tasty and tender. Rather, the spicy sauce was bereft of any smoky flavour; just too sweet and tropical for my taste buds. The fries, however, are definitely worth a detour. When I mentioned my disappointment with the sides to the manager, she suggests that I ask only for the fries next time, at no extra charge. Next time?

The sweets menu was in such demand that I only got a brief glance at it. Owner Diane suggests a chocolate silk pie with three small islands of raspberry-topped soft caramel and a tired sliced marinated strawberry ($6.95). The flourless chocolate filling was adequate, but lacked a true chocolatey bite. It went unfinished. But the fresh pecan pie ($6.95) served on a large white caramel-painted plate, star anise festooned whipped cream and thankfully none of the advertised white chocolate icing was sheer surrender.

The Blues wine list is as eclectic as the food. One special touch is that every dish features an interesting, but sometimes controversial, beverage pairing (created by Derek Valleau from CN Tower's The 360).

Some items are great and worthy of a detour, while others should be avoided -- you may have to play a bit of hit or miss. You can't love a main dish only to discover that you hate what accompanies it; any rating is going to reflect that. But Blues is a worthwhile dinner destination. With weekly happenings like Tequila tastings and wine makers' dinners, Blues on Bellair should only improve.

Photo by Marijke Leupen
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