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Que Syrah Shiraz!
Terrific Quality in Today’s
Vintages Release
At Too-Good-to-be-True Prices!

© Michael Vaughan 2002
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
National Post • Saturday, June 15, 2002
(full unedited version)

 

Every so often a wine appears in a Vintages release that simply sweeps you off your feet. It is the kind that tempts one to keep under cover, at least until one’s own personal supply is assured. As your wine scribe, I leave no bottle unturned in my quest to track down the best for National Post readers.

 

Naturally, it is frustrating to discover that all too often the thirsty hordes have swooped into the LCBO outlets and cleared the shelves of the wines that even I wanted to buy! Take my recommended Pommery NV Brut Royal Champagne at only $29.95 - there isn’t a bottle left in the LCBO warehouse. Using the infoline, however, I was able to discover that some 300 bottles were still available at Queens Quay (as of last Wednesday).

 

The Best Wine in Today’s Vintages Release

 

 

Getting back to today’s Vintages release of  82 items, there are a number of sensational wines based on the hot-hot Syrah grape, which is the king of the Northern Rhône region of France. Of course, Syrah is also known as Shiraz in Australia. While there are many clones of this grape, the nomenclature usually reflects two very divergent styles of what is essentially the same grape.

 

It is amazing to think that the Rhone’s best sites (Côte Rotie and Hermitage) have been producing Syrah since 71 AD. Today these wines have smoky, rich, robust, sometimes gamey/meaty flavours. Shiraz, which is arguably Australia’s most successful red grape variety, has a  totally different taste – intense, usually highly alcoholic, extremely fruity, often jammy and heavily oaked (new American oak) with lots of black cherry flavours.

 

Given the immense growing popularity of this grape, there are plenty of new Syrah/Shiraz vineyards popping up all over the world. The style depends upon the winemaker’s approach, vineyard site and yield. In today’s Vintages release, Viña Errazuriz 2000 Estate Shiraz from Chile at $16.30 is simply too good to be true. The nose behind the deep intense purple colour is sensational – gently cedary and loaded with ripe cranberry/black raspberry fruit.  The terrific, bright but velvety, smoky, cranberry-cassis flavours dance on the tongue.  Delicious today, this Syrah can still evolve meaning that you will regret not buying more than a bottle or two. Indeed, it may well be the finest Shiraz I have ever tasted under $20, so don’t delay rushing out to get some - the 500 cases available are certain to sell out today!

 

Errazuriz, the first to plant Shiraz in Chile, chose the slightly cooler Aconcagua Valley site. The style leans in the Aussi direction with a tip of the hat to the classy, smoky notes found in the best of the Rhone. Some one-quarter of the wine went into French oak, the balance into American of which 40% was new. It remained there for only eight months meaning that it does not have an excessive oaky taste.

 

Ironically, the riper Errazuriz 1999 Reserve Shiraz with 14.8% alcohol was awarded a Gold Medal at last year’s Challenge International du Vin. Despite the challenging weather conditions associated with the 2000 vintage, I think this is even better with slightly lower alcohol (14%), higher total acidity (up from 4.4 to 5.3 g/l) and virtually no residual sugar. It is the must buy of the entire June release.

 

A Classic Rhone at a Great Price

 

For Syrah fans, Domaine de Mourchon 1999 Séguret Grande Réserve is another outstanding buy for just a few pennies more at $16.95.  Located in the southern Rhone near Gigondas and Rasteau,  this supple Côtes-du-Rhône-Village is a blend 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache. It has a deep, intense, purple colour.  The nose is quite complex with earthy, sweet prune, cassis and chocolate notes. On the palate, it is fairly intense with rounded, spicy, chocolaty, plum-prune-black cherry flavours that show excellent length. While it is ready to enjoy, it is still capable of evolving nicely for a year or two.

 

Credit for this wine goes to Walter McKinley, a recently-transplanted Scotsman who purchased the existing vineyards and built a  new winery in 1998 after selling his IT company. Previously all the grapes from the 17 ha vineyard were sold for blending.  It is now one of only eleven estates in the Séguret appellation. Unlike the Chilean Shiraz, only 10% of this blend has been aged in small French cooperage. The wine’s excellent structure is attributable to relying exclusively on the property’s low yielding 55-year-old vineyard. Of the 13,000 bottles produced, 4,800 bottles (37%) went to Vintages!

An Amazing Rosé

 

Last but not least, we have a terrific little rosé also from the Rhône in which Syrah plays a subdued but nevertheless important role with Cinsault and Grenache (the latter being the major component). Today’s release of Mas des Bressades 2001 Rosé Cuvée Tradition is a remarkable buy at only $9.95. It originates in the Costières de Nîmes on the western border of the Rhone region abutting Languedoc. Beware, with 13.5% alcohol, the easy sipping, fresh red apple and lithe dried strawberry flavours hit the mark as a delicious summer sipper.

 

The back label informs that this wine wwqs made using the saignée (a French term meaning “bled”) technique. Keep in mind that these grapes have dark red skins and white juice. The colour and flavours from the skins is released through the process of maceration where the crushed grapes (light coloured juice and dark grape skins) are kept together usually during the fermentation process. Basically what happens is that some of this coloured juice is added to the white juice from the freshly pressed grapes giving the assemblage just the right touch of pink.

 

To get Canada’s most comprehensive monthly Buying Guide to every LCBO product coming out in Vintages every month prior to the release CLICK HERE

 

Coming Up

• Taking place this Thursday, June 20th is the Around the World with Baron Philippe Rothschild Wine Tasting Dinner at Fairmont Royal York's Epic Restaurant featuring the ever-expanding international Rothschild portfolio including Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Opus One and Baron'arques ($125 all inclusive). Call 416-860-6949.

• On the same night is the 6th Annual Covenant House Wine Auction & Dinner at the Liberty Grand. The wine auction features over 100 lots of wine drawn from the private cellars of local wine collectors.  Tickets are $275 - call Andrea at (416) 204-7038.

• To see additional current upcoming events CLICK HERE
• Next Month’s July 2002 Vintages Release is now posted
CLICK HERE to see it!

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
 (electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net