Today we see part one of the Vintages September release. Last week I clued you into some of the must buy whites of the release. But what about the reds, you ask? By now I am sure that some of you have noticed that one great Italian red icon being released today went totally unmentioned, not so much as a squeak.

Yes, Antinori 1998 Tignanello is the kind of wine that almost makes you genuflect out of respect. Something to set before the feet of the Godfather or at least pour unashamedly for that well-heeled prospective film-producer. Now while this may not make me popular with devout fans who are lined up to shell out $77.70 a bottle; but if the truth were known, I am far from captivated by this wine’s magic spell. In a nutshell, it simply isn’t worth the price - at least at the moment. Sure it’s pleasant and harmonious with fine plumy-cherry flavours, but so are dozens of other reds at less than half the price.

Don’t get me wrong; I have had a long love affair with this wine especially when it was cheap (under $20) and less internationalized. Tignanello was originally a Chianti Classico Riserva called Vigneto Tignanello. When this single vineyard wine was first introduced in 1970, it was based on Sangiovese with 20% Canaiolo and 5% Trebbiano and Malvasia all aged in small oak cooperage. In 1971 it became a Vino da Tavola (known as a VdT) della Toscana and renamed Tignanello, after the 116-acre vineyard from which it originates. By 1975 all the white grapes were eliminated and in 1982 the native Canaiolo was replaced by Bordeaux varieties (15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc).

Today, it is aged in 225 liter French oak barrels (new and one-year-old Troncais and Alliers). Indeed, Tig claims a number of firsts – “the first Sangiovese to be aged in small oak barrels, the first red wine in modern times to use a non-traditional grape variety, Cabernet, in the blend, and among the first red wines made in Chianti with no white grapes.”

Ironically, my release highlight in today’s release comes from the lowly Gamay, a grape that Robert Parker Jr. suggests, ‘even at its best, is never worth more than 90 points.’ And worse yet, this one isn’t even from France, but from our own Niagara Peninsula. Nevertheless, I am sure you will thank me for recommending Henry of Pelham 2000 Gamay (cspc #534545). At an unbelievably modest $11.95, you will have to remember not to snicker at the Riedel-swirling moneyed hoi polloi struggling to catch a whiff their still elusive 1998 Tignanello.

Of course, this isn’t your everyday Gamay. It comes from Pelham’s own vineyards and is one of the best ever produced in Canada. In the first place, there is the whopping 13.6% alcohol, which is perfectly balanced by excellent fruit intensity. Unlike our Italian friend, the lovely, freshly-baked, ripe strawberry pie nose along with some earthy notes leap out of the glass. On the palate, the dazzling, spicy, ripe plum and bright cherry purée flavours are most seductive. The secret here was the addition of 20% whole cluster grapes, which created terrific fruit flavours via a kind of “mini” carbonic maceration effect. There is no barrel aging meaning that the focus is on fruit, not complexity. The result is simply delicious and, better yet, it’s ready to drink.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the worthwhile wares of a nearby “bench” winery. Their outstanding Cave Spring 1999 Gamay Reserve (released October 2000 at $17.95) can be found on some of the better restaurant wine lists in town. Patriot on Bloor Street West near Bay, for instance, is a good bet when it comes to Ontario wine selection (call 416-922-0025). Like the Henry of Pelham Gamay, this is “Estate Bottled” effort originated in the winery’s own vineyards located on the Beamsville Bench. Yields were quite low at 50 hl/hc (3 tons/acre) from 16-year-old vines with a fairly high planting density of 3,625/hc (1,450/acre). (Gamay yields at Henry of Pelham 2000 were 3.5-4 tons/acre.) Unlike the Henry of Pelham, which received no oak aging, the Cave Spring Reserve spent 6 months in French oak barriques (50% new and 50% second year) after completing full malolactic fermentation. The 1999 was inadvertently presented in the LCBO lab instead of the Cave Spring 2000 Gamay Reserve (to be released on September 21^st at $15.95). The latter was still somewhat hard (it achieved 21.8 Brix vs. 22.4 for the 1999) and needs another 9-12 months of aging.   

Moving on to the extremely well priced Cave Spring 1999 Merlot at only $15.95 – here is another one of those very special buys. The nose is faintly herbal with ripe strawberry purée, hints of toast, sandalwood, cassis and licorice. It is quite well structured and harmonious with tangy, slightly herbal, dried ripe strawberry flavours and some coffee notes on the lingering finish. At its peak, this crowd pleaser offers terrific value and will be hitting the Vintages shelves on September 21^st. But there is no need to wait; you can order it today directly from the winery by calling 905-562-3581 or try it at Le Select Bistro on Queen Street West.

Of three regional South Australia Shiraz presented, my favourite was Penfolds Thomas Hyland 2000 Shiraz. At $19.95 it offers fine value at a low price. It has a deep purple colour with an intense, spicy, peppery, slightly smoky, expressive, baked plum nose. On the palate it is dry, firm but well balanced with chocolaty, dried plum and red pepper purée flavours. There are 800 cases available so you don’t have to panic. Also, make sure you mark your calendar for the Bill Hardy Winemaker Dinner on Tuesday September 17th at Epic Restaurant at The Royal York Hotel where BRL wines will be paired with the cuisine by the Royal York's Chef de Cuisine Jean-Charles Dupoire. Tickets are $110, call 416-860-5097.

Die-hard Pinot Noir fans will not be disappointed by François Martenot 1997 Maranges 1er Cru  ‘La Fussière’ at $ 23.35. The commune, which marks the southern limit of the Côte de Beaune region, is medium light bodied but surprisingly tasty with slightly spicy, vanilla-tinged, ripe, red cherry purée flavours. It is at the peak of perfection and would be perfect with a pair of freshly roasted Ontario quail.

Coming up tomorrow: the 14th Annual Feast of Fields from 2 - 6 pm at Albion Hills. Starring 40 of Canada's best chefs whose dishes will be married with the best from 20 wineries & microbreweries. Plus some 30 organic farmers will be in attendance. Tickets are $100 and will be available at the event (starting at 1:30 pm) or can be booked by calling Emily at 905-859-0060.

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