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June 2003

Bouchon Bistro/Wine Bar
Promises great subterranean bistro grazing with JP Chalet
38 Wellington Street East • 416-862-2675

© Michael Vaughan 2002
May 22, 2003

On the way to the theatre last night I stopped in at the just-opened Montreal-styled bistro called Bouchon or cork in French. It is almost directly across the street from the Bluma Appel Theatre and has only been open since September 25th. It operates from Tuesday to Saturday and starting next Wednesday it will be serving 11 am on. It all takes place in subterranean ex-Vines location. Partners include Laura Helwig who looks after the bar, affable Richard Rodrigues who takes care of the dining side and, of course, culinary wiz Jean-Pierre Chalet (“JP”) in the kitchen.

The dinner menu features 17 sometimes-eclectic items, which have a fine French twist. It includes two renditions of foie gras, three of tartare. JP signature dishes (are here at a fraction of Windsor Arms prices. Prices range from $7 to $19 and portions are halfway between appetizers and main. This is perfect for those who want something tasty but are not keen on stuffing themselves. Things are still coming together (the luncheon and dessert menus have not been produced yet). On the basis of only two dishes sampled: the first, mushroom strudel, beef tenderloin and braised salsify; the second, beef bourguignon on (potato) purée with chanterelles and hazelnut blinis (both a reasonable $16), I predict that Bouchon will become a popular destination.

Wines start at $8 a glass. My only quibble (and this isn’t just with Bouchon) is that the mark-ups tend to be somewhat on the high side and the selection occasionally undistinguished – i.e. the simple, sweetish, albeit crowd pleasing Ironstone 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon is $42 a bottle (before taxes and tip), while the same wine was released in Vintages last month at an overpriced $18.50. For my palate, to pay $11 a glass price is almost a bad joke. Keep in mind that this is a soft opening and fortunately, I have been assured that there will be significant improvements in the near future. Better yet, there are some fine brews on tap, which, after a day of wine tasting, are refreshing, relaxing and just delicious. Let me recommend a delicious large creamy pint of Kilkenney Irish Red Ale at only $6.00.

Toronto Restaurant Update
August 2002
A not-for-profit website dedicated to the discerning reader!

Inexpensive Toronto Dining

You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get a great meal in Toronto. At the bottom of the totem pole, some of our street vendors sell what may well be the tastiest and cheapest ethnic sausages in North America. They are presented with a ton of self-serve condiments (varying in quality from vendor to vendor) and make for a quick meal for people on the go.

Trying to find a useful guide to Toronto restaurants is no easy matter. Unfortunately, some Toronto restaurant guides are either out-of-date or paid-for advertising. There is always the newly revised Zagat but many of the newer and smaller “finds” are never included.

A cornocopia of reviews appear in various daily newspapers, Toronto Life Magazine, Eye, Now, etc. Views vary. If you only have a few days, for instance, you will want to know whether the trendy, just opened, packed Crush is worthy of a detour? Yes, says the National Post; no, says the Globe & Mail. Unfortunately, neither review is still available on the respective newspaper websites. Personally, I think that if you relish the noisy bar scene, then Crush may well be for you. For me, it’s just too noisy and, at the price, its culinary creations are not quite worthy of a detour. To find out what is, see below.

Thankfully there is a new small, inexpensive and relatively up-to-date guide has just appeared on the market. It is called Cheap Thrills Toronto • Great Toronto meals for under $15.00

By Nancy Marrelli & Simon Dardick (plus a host of other reviewers/contributors). It is available for $10.95 at the Cookbook Store located at Yorkville and Yonge Street, which also happens to be worth a detour (416-920-2665). If you can go without wine, for instance, then you can feast on what may well be the finest schnitzel this side of Vienna at Country Style Hungarian (450 Bloor Street West). The only thing special about this place is the cuisine and prices. Make sure you don’t miss their homemade apple strudel. For the best BBQ meat (order it “wet”), then Dipamo’s Barbeque (either location on College or Eglinton West) is a winner. And while I may quibble with some of their choices there are 90 in the book), it provides more useful, updated, consumer-driven information than any other Toronto guide I have seen!

Check it out at www.cheapthrillsguides.com

Toronto’s Best Restaurant?
(Note that this section is in the process of being updated – Revised 2003)

If you have bucks to burn and hopefully the palate to match, Chef Susur Lee’s restaurant at 601 King Street West (modestly called Susur) has been a must Toronto restaurant destination for some discerning dinners. It is expensive by Toronto standards with several of the gourmet tasting menus fetching over $100 per person. Keep in mind that this feast (what is being presented is determined by the house) is served “backwards” (first the main course, followed by the foie gras dish, fish course, soup, etc.). This may be very bothersome for wine lovers who like to move from white wine with seafood to red wine with the meat dish. Keep in mind that the multi-portion courses are often quite small, sometimes just several bites, which makes wine matching a bit of a challenge. Just ask to have it served in the order you wish – after all, you are the customer and paying for it! Also, if you go as a couple, each person will be served a totally different menu.

Unfortunately, the wine list has not been stellar (featuring some unacceptable 2001 Ontario lady bug afflicted wines), dishes occasionally uneven and service faltering. There is no question that this ambitious kitchen can really shine and, hopefully, it will when you visit. I am still waiting for an update on the menu and wine list for 2003. To reserve call 416-603-2205.

Now steak may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but Toronto does have what I think may well be one of the best steakhouses in North America. It is called Harbour Sixty Steakhouse and it somewhat awkwardly located in the small beautifully refurbished Harbour Commission building near the waterfront at 60 Harbour Street. I published a very detailed review of it when it first opened and have been back several times without being disappointed. It is elegant and expensive, but at least the parking is free. The superbly tender, gently battered calamari is a must (now $11.50), while the huge, wonderfully flavoured, Bruss of Chicago corn fed, bone-in rib steak at $39.95 is to die for. Beef tallow is used on the fries – sublime but dangerous. Chef Bruce Kowalchuk has been there since its opening in 1999. To reserve call (416) 777-2111. To see my review CLICK HERE

NOTE: A 2003 UPDATE is in order - menu items/prices have changed, Bruss beef is no longer being served, etc.

Pho Phuong Hoang Restaurant
Vaughan’s Monthly Best Buy Dining Tip

Check out this little gem, which is located at 1151 College Street. Tea (iced or hot served free) is order of the day. The extensive menu is cheep and cheerful. Not everything is fantastic – I am not overly keen on the shrimp. A big bowl of Pho (there are 27 variations of this delicious soup available) makes for a full meal for well under ten dollars. Let me recommend Pho dac Biet that is #79 on the menu. In the flavourful broth there are a profusion of rice noodles, medium rare beef, well-done beef, beef tenderloin, stewed trip and beef balls. A plate of garnishes accompanies the soup and includes fresh bean sprouts, coriander and lime. It comes in three sizes- small, medium and large at $5.50, $6.00 and $6.50 respectively. I get the large, which means I can share or take the remnants home. The flavours are crystal clear and it is not fatty at all – delicious and healthy. Even if you don’t like tripe, it adds a lot of character to the broth – so I recommend this combo (the most expensive on the menu).

For appetizers, the Vietnamese style deep fried spring rolls with a small salad (#35) would be my choice, especially at only $4.00. As for mains, it is hard to beat the large plate of delicious broken rice with grilled pork chop, grilled chicken. shredded pork, steamed eggs and fried eggs (#124 - $8.50). For the less adventuresome, chop and chicken with the rice (#119) is only $7.50. All of the above go terrifically well with beer.

This is not a fancy destination; I am not a fan of a television in a dining room. Nevertheless, it is bright with speedy, courteous service by Sonny and his younger sister. It is sparkling clean and you can tell that it’s good by the enthusiastic clientele. Open seven days a week, I have never had to reserve – but then it has never been reviewed. For details call 416-538-6891.