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What you got? Turkey
What are you going to drink with it? Wine
What wine? Ask our resident wine guy Michael Vaughan
(to check LCBO store availability just click on the name of the wine)
By Michael Vaughan
National Post Columnist • Sunday, December 23, 2007

Getting the "right" turkey wine is always a bit tricky. It is going to relate to what your serving with the turkey, along with your own stylistic preferences. Having said that, in terms of red wine, as a basic rule most big, heavy, tannic wines are usually not good matches - especially with the more delicate white flesh. Be it Bordeaux or a Brunello, the tannins from oak aging and dried plum flavours tend to be overpowering.

A better idea is to go for a lighter, brighter reds. Gamay when it's done right will work, while a decent Pinot Noir (meaning not in the $10 range) is even better. The latter will usually have some cherry-berry flavours along with good acidity, which is perfect to cut through the gravy. If you are able to find juicy examples of Syrah/Shiraz, Merlot, Argentine Malbec, even the occasional Cabernet - they too will also work well.

For Pinot Noir fans it's going to be hard to beat the classic Bouchard Pere & Fils 2005 Beaune du Château (V 901199) at $41.95 with its still youthful, albeit with plummy, dried red cherry flavours that are fairly approachable, but it's probably better to lay it away until next Christmas.

If you are looking for something less expensive and yet tasty, let me recommend the red trio from the same producer. At a recent survey of new vintage reds from the excellent 2005/2006 vintages, I was impressed with the crisp, gently juicy, medium-light boded, ripe plum, dried strawberry flavours of Bouchard Pere & Fils 2006 Beaujolais Villages (G 665448) at only $13.20. The really nice thing about this 100% Gamay is its harmony and absence of any shrill, peppery, acidity. A definite winner.

Beside it the softer, baked ripe plum flavours of the Gamay-based Bouchard Pere & Fils 2006 Macon Rouge (G) makes it a choice for those looking for greater accessibility. Beware, it tends to tighten up in the glass with some breathing. Another good value is the Bouchard Pere & Fils 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir La Vignée (G 605667) at $17.75. It is focused on ripe plums and dried red cherries with a medium-light bodied, tangy finish.

From Ontario, it's hard to beat Hillebrand 2005 Trius Red (V 303800) a Vintages Essential at $19.95. This fine VQA blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Cabernet Franc and 11% Merlot is dry, medium bodied and well balanced with ripe, plummy, crancherry flavours followed up by a mocha-chocolate-cedar finish. Remember to buy the 2005 vintage.

From Chile's I have been especially impressed with the surprising juicy fruit flavours of Miguel Torres 2005 Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (V 177451) a Vintages Essential, which has a $1 LTO making the price $13.95. This current shipment - the best to date - has a deep intense purple red colour. Spicy ripe plum, black cherries and chocolate on the nose. Dry, well structured, fairly rich and harmonious with plummy, juicy, black cherry flavours and a lingering, very gently cedary, mocha finish. While it would be terrific with a rib steak and roast beef, it also marries well with turkey and duck.

In the white wine department, I lean towards a Chardonnay but not ones that have too much tropical and/or vanilla flavour. It must be balanced with good acidity. A great best buy still in Vintages is the single estate Chilean Casablanca Valley Santa Rita 2005 Medalla Real Chardonnay Reserva Especial (V 303628) at $18.95. A big (14.5% alcohol), flavourful white that has a distinctive, intense, rather cedary, rhubarb-tinged, ripe lemon meringue pie nose. On the palate it is intense, well structured, slightly spicy, ripe lemon and key lime pie flavours with a lingering, slightly cedary, high acid finish. Terrific value here.

Lighter and more elegant comes from Italy's Trentino Bollini 2006 Chardonnay Barricato 40 (V 987503) at $15.95. It has gently honeyed, caramel-tinged, ripe lemon-melon fruit on the nose. Dry and medium-light bodied, its slightly spicy, ripe lemon-melon-Anjou pear flavours with a crisp finish would go well with white-fleshed poultry.

I was smitten with another Italian white - the recently released Friuli Di Lenardo 2006 Pinot Grigio Dal Vigneto Vigne dai Vieris (V 710012) at only $14.95. It has attractive, floral, fresh pear aromas and dry, medium-light bodied, harmonious, slightly honeyed, ripe melon, pear and lemon flavours - versatile and ready to enjoy.

As a Riesling fan, I find that a dry, albeit ripe, Riesling also hits the spot. For instance, New Zealand's Matua Valley 2005 Marlborough Riesling (G 27078) at only $15.95 is truly terrific, with its rich, mineral tinged, ripe, lemon-melon-apple flavours. Also, a big winner with appetizers.

Rosé can be very enjoyable as well. There have been a number of excellent, reasonably priced, Ontario rosés. Hillebrand 2006 Gamay Noir Rosé Artist Series (G 49742) at the reduced $9.65 price (vs. the regular $12.15) is a serious bargain. It has a fragrant nose focused on delicate plums and wild strawberries, which carry over perfectly on the well-balanced palate. It's a real winner.

From Spain's Cataluña comes the light reddish coral coloured Torres de Casta 2006 Rosado (G 619916) at $11.15. This decisive blend of 65% Garnacha and 35% Carinena has vibrant, plummy, ripe strawberry flavours and a crisp, refreshingly dry finish. It shows wonderful versatility and is surprisingly well structured.

If note overly dry, some sparkling wines can also work. I was particularly impressed with the tasty, sweet, Tenuta Neirano Brachetto d'Acqui (V 47225) at $16.95 with only 6.5% alcohol making it fairly safe (don't drink a bottle) for those navigating their way home after dinner. It has a fairly deep red dark rosé colour and very attractive, gently sweet, honeyed, ripe, plummy, Muscat nose. Effervescent, sweet and lively with ripe, plummy, Muscat flavours and a crisp finish.

If you want something drier, don't miss Codorniu Brut Cava Pinot Noir Rosé (V 665372) at $16.95, a fine Spanish bubbly made the French Champagne method. It has an orange-red tinged pink colour and a lovely, honeyed, ripe plum nose. Fairly dry, honeyed, ripe, plummy, fresh strawberry-cherry flavours with good balance and effervescence.

Fruit wines can also be great. Problem is that the fruit wineries have not provided me with updated vintages to taste. As a result, I can't make recommendations. The only one that cut the mustard was the Ontario's Stoney Ridge 2006 Cranberry Wine (V 392191) at $14.95 with 10% alcohol. It has a very bright medium red colour; fresh, bright, ripe crancherry nose and dry, attractive, medium-light bodied, ripe crancherry flavours with a lingering, very faintly sweet, tangy finish. This 2006 vintage is distinctly superior to the 2005 released last December.

Here are some still-available recently recommended releases from Vintages:

White

A recommended best buy is Peninsula Ridge 2006 Viognier (V 662601) at $13.95. This fine effort has a VQA Niagara Peninsula designation and fairly intense, ripe, spicy, Anjou pear nose. Dry, crisp and medium to medium-light bodied with very lively, melon, rhubarb, dried pear and ripe lemon flavours.

Rosé

Vineland Estate 2006 Pinot Meunier Rosé (V 53470) at $14.95 has a light salmon-pink colour. It has a slightly spicy, juicy, ripe strawberry nose and fairly dry, spritzy, medium-light bodied, slightly sweetish, strawberry flavours with a lingering, crisp finish. Vibrant and quite delicious, it would be perfect served slightly chilled with your turkey.

Red

From Germany's Baden region comes a perfect Pinot Noir - the estate bottled Salwey 2005 Spätburgunder Trocken Oberrtoweiler Kasleberg (V 43380) at $24.95. Only medium-deep red in colour, it has very attractive, plummy, tangy, ripe red cherry flavours with a lingering, slightly cedary finish. Delicious and ready to drink.

 

Copyright: Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2007
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
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Contact Michael Vaughan at

mbv@total.net