Vintage Destinations - Arizona Wineries Reaching for the Stars

Arizona Wineries
Reaching for the Stars

The migration has begun. Flocks of snowbirds are headed south to escape from our nasty wintry weather. I thought of all this on an end of October trip to Tucson , Arizona where I visited not one, but two observatories. The clarity of the blue skies was breathtaking. Nearly as stunning was the fact that while Toronto was toying with zero, we were hitting parched 35-degree days.

It hardly occurred to me that anyone would be growing grapes in the land of cacti. Boy, was I in for a surprise. For here less than an hour drive just southeast of Tucson was a unique microclimate. The higher altitude meant less heat during the day and much cooler nights along with summer rains, which spin off the Gulf of Mexico .

It all started in 1979 when Dr. Gordon Dutt, a soil scientist at the University of Arizona , established the first experimental vineyard. “This part of Arizona is a lot different than most folks imagine,” says Dutt. “We're at an altitude of 5,000 feet, set in rolling grasslands dotted with white oak and soil (terra rosa red clay) nearly identical to that of Burgundy.”

Dutt opened Sonoita Vineyards in 1983 at the top of a scenic hill in Elgin , Arizona . Today, he has been joined by another dozen or so wineries. My first stop, naturally, was Sonoita. It was not a cheery thing. The vineyards seemed decimated and most of the wines, a number of which were blended with California imports, left much to be desired. The inexpensive blush Arizona Sunset was the highlight! I was ready to throw in the towel, especially as a sommelier at a local resort had warned me that Arizona “doesn’t produce any worthwhile wines”

Thankfully, I persisted, continuing just 15 minutes down the treeless road to another large nondescript white building, which housed what may well be one of America ’s foremost wineries. I could tell by looking at the perfectly healthy, well-trimmed, robust vines that something was being done right. The red, iron and calcium rich gravelly clay soils of the tiny Buena Suerte Vineyard were as dry as bone.

Greeting us was winemaker-owner Kent Callaghan. His lip and hand were cut from an unsuccessful fight he had earlier in the day with a stubborn destalking machine. He had set out at 6 am that morning to harvest grapes and was happy to see us because he knew he could soon go home to bed.

To say the winery is low-key would be an understatement. Money had been put into the right things like fine new French oak barrels and serious 18-ounce tasting glasses. Callaghan introduced his buddy, Al Buhl, owner of another fine winery called Dos Cabezas, which is located some 80 miles, northeast near Sedona. I discover that up until recently Callaghan was their winemaker and still sources some of their grapes for his wines.

Callaghan and Bulh were settling into tasting some pretty serious, out-of-state Syrahs, obviously called for after a strenuous day of picking at Bulh’s place. Callaghan pulls the cork on a bottle of Callaghan 2001 Kevin’s Cuvée. Putting my nose to still-gyrating liquid I could immediately tell that this is serious stuff! This $16US blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia and Riesling had impressive, crisp, tangy, floral, tangerine citrus flavours.

I soon discovered what a few insiders already knew - Kent Callaghan is making some truly great wines out here in the middle of what city folks arrogantly refer to as “nowhere.” While Callaghan’s sun-drenched, fruit-driven, red Rhone varietals are great and would normally be the order of the day, my heart stopped when I tasted his white 2002 Lisa’s Selection, which is named after his wife. Only 200 cases of this brilliant barrel-fermented blend of 62% Viognier and 38% Riesling were made at $22US a bottle. This rich, ripe, mouthfilling blend was dripping with honeysuckle, apricot and pear flavours reminiscent of an Alsace “vendage tardif.” Aged four months in 25% new oak, it is a unique effort and one of this year’s best.

The Callaghan Vineyards portfolio consists of small quantities of up to eleven wines. The biggest volume being the delicious, juicy but well structured, sur-lie-stirred 2000 Back Lot Cuvée with 340 cases. This blend of 60% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah and 20% Zinfandel fetches $25 at the winery.

As Callaghan has just released 2002 Lisa’s Selection, I opted to share my sole bottle with Vintages buyers for an assessment. Before anyone could mutter “who buys Arizona wine?” it was all thumbs up. Hopefully, we will all get a chance to buy this elixir at the LCBO before Robert Parker Jr. tastes it and it all disappears! Certainly any snowbird lucky enough to drift into Arizona should make a detour to visit this winery (for information click here)

Coming up: I can recommend this weekend's 2003 Gourmet Wine & Food Expo at the Metro Convention Centre (downstairs in the south section). It is the best looking show to date. Running today and tomorrow, tickets are $15 (click here for discount coupons/hours). On Thursday, November 27th, the 2003 Beaujolais Festival at Intercontinental Toronto Centre ( 225 Front Street West ) commencing at 6:30 pm ($40) held by the French Chamber of Commerce call 416-205-9820 (click here)

Copyright: Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2004
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