Michael Vaughan's Weekly National Post Feature

Discovering Greece - a wine odyssey
Splendid Assyrtiko from Santorini
© Michael Vaughan 2007
National Post Weekly Wine & Spirits Columnist
Saturday, August 11, 2007

To see this article as it appears in the National Post click here

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It's a miracle. I am referring to the phenomenal whites now being made on the island of Santorini. I recently visited this Greek gem and was astounded by the whites made from Assyrtiko - a variety most people have never heard of. This amazing grape can ripen perfectly in the most challenging of conditions - searing heat, dessert like rainfall and extremely infertile soils. And yet, not only is the resulting wine refined and flavourful, but it also has an abundance of fresh, natural acidity.

It is said that Santorini's Assyrtiko vines are also among the world's oldest - so old, that there is a movement afoot to make the ever-diminishing vineyards, which are being gobbled up by tourist development, a world heritage site. From over 4,000 hc, only 1,200 hc remain - almost ¾ being Assyrtiko.

Unlike any other vineyard in the world, the vines look like low tortured bushes with grape clusters often left dangling on the parched volcanic-laced stoney soil. No close spacing here, the roots need room to spread out to absorb every drop of moisture. Water is on strict allocation and evening mists are critical for survival. Vines are trained into a unique basket-shaped form, which protects them from the gale-force winds.

It is here where I tasted most of the Assyrticos made at the island's dozen wineries. Santos is the biggest, an impressive coop with over 2,000 members. It has an excellent visitor centre and a bevy of pretty decent wines. I was, however, most impressed with one of the smaller producers, owned by Paris Sigalas, a mathematician by training who started the winery in 1991. Today his whites are hailed as being the best in Greece.

In one of those weird twists of fate, I was able to do a vertical tasting of Sigalas wines thanks to the Toronto-based wine agent Steve Kriaris owner of the Kolonaki Group (416-6307392). The Sigalas 2005 Santorini, despite14% alcohol, is very well integrated with lots of bright, fresh, ripe lemon-melon flavours. Easy to drink and perfection with seafood. It is available at only $19.95 from the agent. The fleshier, delicious Sigalas 2003 Santorini is a consignment selection at $26.95. It can also be ordered directly from Kolonaki.

The best wine previewed was the splendid Sigalas 2006 Santorini. It is loaded with ripe Anjou pear flavours and has yet to arrive in Canada. I scored it over 90 points. This and the other 2006 Sigalas wines have benefited tremendously from a new press that very slowly squeezes the grapes. It is an extremely gentle squeeze meaning that some of the bitter compounds found in previous vintages have now vanished.

Paris Sigalas is putting the finishing touches on his new winery. Don't miss trying the bright, 70-30 based 2006 Assyyrtico-Athiri with its mineral backbone or the rich, spicy, toasty, grapefruit peel driven Sigalas 2006 Barrel Santorini, which is not inexpensive.

The bad news is that although these Siglas Santorini wines has been submitted to Vintages a number of times, Vintages has consistently refused to taste it. The good news is that it will be at this weekend's Taste of the Danforth Greek Wine Garden (located at Pape and Danforth), where you can personally check out the goods by buying sample tickets. To see what's being served click here

Also on tap is another gold medal winning Santorini white, which is being released at the LCBO on September 15th. Boutari 2006 Santorini Assyrtiko at $15.95 has an attractive, slightly spicy, ripe apricot nose and dry, zesty, ripe melon-apple flavours. Compare both for yourself. If you like it, Kolonaki has it available by the case at only $14.95 a bottle, which is a dollar cheaper that at Vintages.

While some less expensive Greek wines are challenging, bargains do exist. At only $8.15, for instance, Kourtakis 2004 Vin de Crete Red (415406 - general list) will definitely hit the spot especially if slightly chilled on a hot summer day. Light in alcohol (only 12%); look for dry, medium-light bodied, slightly spicy, plummy, red cherry flavours with Beaujolais-like crispiness. As for the great Greek reds, they really do exist. Future updates from my Greek wine odyssey will keep you abreast of what's worth buying.

Also this weekend is Niagara Farm to Table Experience on Sunday, August 13. It features local tomatoes and is presented by Chef Stephen Treadwell and grower Dave Perkins. Held at Chateau des Charmes winery from 4:30-6:30 pm, tickets are $50.00. For info call the winery at 1-800-263-2541.

Coming Up

Continuing to Sunday, August 12 - Toronto 12th Festival of Beer
[Toronto]
Toronto's Festival of Beer will feature exhibitors offering 200+ major, macro and micro brews from the palest pilsners to the deepest stouts, featuring some of Canada's oldest brewers. Held at the Historic Fort York - 100 Garrison Rd. Tickets are $21 per person for advance purchase or $26 at the gate for Friday or Sunday, and $26 per person for advance purchase or $31 at the gate for Saturday.
For information click here.

Continuing to Sunday, August 12 - Taste of the Danforth
[Toronto]
This year's festival will be the 14th Anniversary of the Krinos
Taste of the Danforth. Click here for more information.

Saturday, August 11 - Hillebrand Blues
[Niagara-on-the-Lake]
Bring your favourite chair or blanket and listen to the sounds from the lawn overlooking the Stone Road Vineyard. VQA wines and wine country cuisine available for purchase. Held at Hillebrand Estates Winery, 1249 Niagara Stone Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake, from 4 pm to 8 pm. For more information visit www.hillebrand.com Tickets are $30.00 per guest. For information call 1-800-582-8412.
For a review of the WINERY ONLY just released 2005 Trius Red
click here

Sunday, August 12 - Niagara Farm to Table Experience
[Niagara-on-the-Lake]
The Bosc family invites you to come and experience a celebration of Niagara's fresh bounty, produced locally and brought directly from the farm to your table, presented by Chef Stephen Treadwell and Grower Dave Perkins featuring tomatoes. Held at Chateau des Charmes, 1025 York Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, from 4:30 to 6:30 pm. Tickets are $50.00 per person. For tickets contact Allison Vandenbos at 905-262-4219 ext.27 or email allisonv@chateaudescharmes.com
or click here for information.

2001 - 2007 Tasting Note Database
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To use our Tasting Notes Database: click here

** For All Visitors **
Vintages Releases
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
August 18 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here
To see the complete list of upcoming products from the
September 1 release, including In-Store Discovery items,
click here (sorted by date of release).
You can also see it sorted by agent click here

Copyright Food & Beverage Testing Institute of Canada 2007
Prior written permission is required for any form of reproduction
(electronic or other wise) and or quotation.
Contact Michael Vaughan at
mbv@total.net